Molly Goddard Spring 2016

When interviewed by Susie Bubble for Topshop's Youtube channel, Molly Goddard hinted at more of her tulle and embellished creations. The idea that something inexpensive such as tulle or calico being transformed through hours of work and various techniques shines through once more. Goddard's signature designs, loosely based on the designer's own baby clothes have carried her in good stead throughout several seasons at London Fashion Week. Last season saw an impromptu art lesson complete with live drawing class. The nature of the show in itself turned heads, but perhaps things are starting to slow down. We've watched each collection progress and mimic stages of adult life from infancy and now into college. As a sign of maturity, Goddard has gone one better, creating floral embroidery on apple green netted dresses and matching tights. As someone who still regularly tosses and turns at night lusting over Rodarte's spiderweb tights I have my heart set on owning some of Molly Goddard's hosiery. 

*Images via WWD

Simone Rocha Fall 2015

As always, Simone Rocha has created the most refined collection with her own unique sense of vision. Having watched a short video of her explaining the way she sees her work in relation to art, as well as the work of her mother who creates art installations makes me feel more confident in placing her work within a contextual setting. Her sheer clothing should look as beautiful on a hanger as it does on a model, as well as the people she designs for. Specifically her family, close friends and even the women who work for her. Knowing that personal collections are what shapes her collections makes viewing each runway show even more special. I've decided to dispense with the sheer black coats and dresses and edit how I view the presentation. Regurgitating the same photos most of you would have seen on Style.com doesn't add value, it detracts from it. So instead I've only included the pieces I am most drawn to and currently fawn over. They include immaculate satin floral pieces, dramatic red and white tweed, and pastel pink. Fall and Winter should never be entertained as a dormancy period for our creativity, rather, it should thrive when we have the capabilities to layer our outfits.

Despite my best efforts, I was instantly reminded of previous efforts by Comme Des Garcons when viewing sheer dresses with cloud motifs. Something about those odd, humped shapes and pastel pink reminded me of a softened version of what I had seen seasons ago from Japan. That said, Simone Rocha does not align herself with the mavericks with fashion and has instead carved herself a nice niche and firm spot on the London Fashion Week calender. Indeed, these outfits do look different combining next season's hottest (and most practical trend), wearing your own hair as a scarf. These have been combined with chunky but pristine leather brogues and mid-calf socks. It reminds me so much of how I viewed myself in high school, but in reality I was never cool, first to be picked on and an outsider in every sense of the word. Still, it's somewhat comforting to see myself in a gorgeous, handmade dress in the perfect shade of fairy floss pink. And I could go on and on about the shoes but as always, Simone Rocha has set the benchmark and I'm sure brands like Jeffrey Campbell will be ripping off her designs for years to come.

After distancing myself from the fashion world and learning to accept I can't possibly scroll through my entire Instagram feed, seeing the latest at Brown's made me fall back in love with fashion. Email is so much easier for me to digest information, but even then there are days when I become frustrated with such a tedious process. First world problems aside, these red and white tweed dresses standing alongside the neutral pieces and Digimon graphics of A.W.A.K.E made me realise how special fashion is. Or how important I see personal style as an outlet for creativity and self-expression. Seeing those huge price tags does deflate my ego but it also gives me a huge burst of energy and the need to work harder than ever before. While these motifs seem familiar and the colour palette has become signature to Simone Rocha, floral motifs have become abstract and form. Not only that but rather than confined to a single headscarf, no matter how chic, these patterns have been allowed to blossom (terrible pun- I know) and become the finale of her Fall collection for 2015.

*Images via Vogue.com

Victoria Rowe 2013

Fluorescent yellow has always been a colour which has both transfixed and terrified me. Periodically fashion bloggers will employ it in contrast to their own monochrome wardrobe and in the blink of an eye the shade will fall out of favour and vanish in an instant. Unlike those dime a dozen fashion bloggers, Victoria Rowe has managed to employ this tricky shade in the most clever of ways- paired with the sassiness of a Disney Villain. That's the impression I was struck with and couldn't shake- the smouldering eyeshadow, slick black boots and the sensational leather jacket all screamed evildoer. It seems fitting that while the world eagerly awaits more trailers for the latest DC blockbuster, Suicide Squad (not sure how to feel about the title tbh), I trawl the Westminster archives for a designer who inspires such beauty and darkness. Purposefully threadbare sweaters and skirts shrouded the body in multiple layers and removed the usual sweet and honestly tacky connotations of fluorescent yellow. Instead of resenting what that peculiar shade of yellow represents amongst commercial practice I have something else to consider now.

*Images via Westminster Fashion

Dyspnea Spring 2015

The downside to fashion week in Australia is that even when a designer does create a perfect collection, they receive only a fraction of the recognition they deserve. It's a real tragedy in every sense of the word. Maybe if Dypsnea had shown their runway collection at New York these talented babes could have achieved world domination by now. I thought there would be a noticeable spike in interest after their runway show finished streaming, but I guess not. Although not wearable and definitely not for the faint of heart each piece is a thing of beauty. It's hard for me not to get excited when there's so much fluff and marabou going on, as embellishments of the clothes themselves as well as the boudoir kitten heels. Although this collection is not yet available for pre-order there are a range of gorgeous pieces encompassing sheer, sequins and fur. Basically Dyspnea have everything you need to stay fabulous for any occasion, preferably during the warmer seasons. 

Images 1-4 from Stefan Gosatti for Getty Images, photos 5-8 via Fashion Blender

Molly Goddard Fall 2015

I realised I hadn't finished writing this blog post when Molly Goddard followed me on Instagram and my god I have never felt such a strange combination of both guilt and excitement. The premise for her most recent London Fashion Week presentation was absolutely exceptional featuring life drawing class complete with nude model. Although I think fashion goers were somewhat putt-off or confronted with "the elephant in the room" many appreciated Goddard's cake like designs. Or the playful narrative: Art imitating life imitating art. In a way that theme has dominated editorials and fashion photography within the last six months but very few designers have been willing to tackle the theme in a live show. Or rather no one has been as explicit as Molly Goddard without being overt or gauche. Everything she does has a certain subtlety to it. At a first glance her dresses appear relatively simple and straightforward but on closer inspection it's obvious each is made with meticulously and with care. Tulle panels and ruching were the star of the show but again Goddard was able to reinvent herself and demonstrate new techniques combined with her signature style. 

Last season's the dresses were the embodiment of the spirit of sweet sixteen with the iconic presentation taking place at a deconstructed birthday party. In a way, we as consumers are watching the development of a character in parallel with Molly Goddard's expanding skill set. Her graduate collection was a grownup interpretation of the clothes a baby would be baptised in and her character's are aging at an alarming rate. I suppose this is more interesting as it celebrates the milestone events in a woman's life in a way that allows Goddard to experiment with her signature sheer and tulle creations. I find it fascinating that as a young designer she has taken this approach and progressively works on each collection as a facet of her life and narrative of a greater story. It's a shame that many more designers don't join her on this approach but for certain bands each album is like a part of a greater anthology. In much the same way Goddard works with a certain kind of rare perspective on what the implications of each collection are. Simultaneous to that she is able to create beautiful which are also a commercial success and feed the artistic community nestled in the heart of London.

I love the way Molly installed herself as the art teacher and overseer to this entire performance and she looked as proud as punch. Too rightly of course, given just how bewitching the atmosphere of the room was. On a personal level I always associate art at a high school level with tons of really bad advice and the subjectivity of a portfolio, hence why I avoided it entirely and stuck to studying science. But of course if I could do it all over again I think I'd at least like to apply myself since I have a better idea of what kind of project I'd like to overtake. The black creepers were the perfect shoe to highlight the bottled up teen angst associated with our high school years as well as popular London subcultures which were active right about the time Goddard was a student herself. Like last season each outfit was styled by Goddard's sister Alice hence the use of black nail polish and black rubber bracelets emphasizing the stereotypical art scene. It's the attention to detail which always contributes in my mind to the reputation of a designer at any level. I look forward to her next collection and the concept behind her presentation at London Fashion Week as well as how fashion bloggers style her wonderful dresses.

1-14 from Now Fashion and 15- 25 via.