Mary Benson Spring 2016

Lately it's been easier to aesthetically cataloging various fashion collections instead of exhaustively reviewing them. The words aren't coming easily. I've put a lot of pressure on myself to maintain this blog and make it as good as I feel it can be. But doing all that whilst still trying to write my thesis/ apply for a PhD/ apply for jobs isn't easy either. While I've always had the opinion that blogs which don't, at least sometimes have a strong written component I'm beginning to see visual expression as valid as written content. To celebrate Mary Benson's Spring 2016 collection, I searched for images from Rookie Mag but some Hole references for good measure. The motifs on her clothes, emphasized using glittery holographic foil, as well as crystal embellished sunglasses celebrated emotional outpourings. I love her fantastical designs, and to see someone celebrate gushing tears down models faces gave validation to every time I had to run to the bathroom and cry. 

This collection also served for the best moodboard of all the makeup looks I need to try out as soon as I can blog on a regular basis. I'd love to be a little more experimental with how I wear makeup, without the marginalization of certain groups through cultural appropriation. Basically it seems that wearing glitter and celebrating all things synthetic and plastic is the best way to go. I have lots of book contact which would be perfect for removable tears running down my cheeks and onto my neck. It's certainly a lot easier than trying to perfect my makeup using permanent markers or texta when I still struggle to make my winged eyeliner symmetrical... But I suppose the point is to not conform to unrealistic beauty standards (including perfect symmetry) but to dress in a way that matches how I feel that day or channel a certain energy. Yes it's cliche, but the alternative is to just throw on a clean shirt and pair of jeans for the rest of my life and live within a cookie cutter mold. 

Aside from the tears and glitter, another motif from this collection were the creepy eyeballs. It almost exists as an extensive of the land of Oz, populated by living forests. This time each eyeball pertained to a globular flower or bush. Since it's October (and Tumblr has become one big advertisement for pumpkins and skeletons), I can openly appreciate things which are both beautiful and creepy. It seems that cartoon lips and eyes will continue to be popular with fashion designers and artists on etsy and I for one couldn't be more excited. Unfortunately it seems that noses aren't as popular, in fashion or on instagram but I'm going to keep hoping I see them up there one day (!!) Anatomy aside, it was cool to see bell sleeves and raw denim jackets with a difference, amongst all the 1970s hysteria that the fashion world seems heavily tied up on. It was cool for the first couple of months, but I'm wondering what Topshop will stock once the gravy train is over and people are looking for The Next Trend.  

Backstage at Mary Benson SS16, photography Chloé Le Drezen.
2- Courtney Love 'Miss World' video, 5- Courtney Love. 9, 17, 21- Stars in my Eyes by Rachel Louise Hodgson.
12- Rookie Yearbook Three.

Molly Goddard Spring 2016

When interviewed by Susie Bubble for Topshop's Youtube channel, Molly Goddard hinted at more of her tulle and embellished creations. The idea that something inexpensive such as tulle or calico being transformed through hours of work and various techniques shines through once more. Goddard's signature designs, loosely based on the designer's own baby clothes have carried her in good stead throughout several seasons at London Fashion Week. Last season saw an impromptu art lesson complete with live drawing class. The nature of the show in itself turned heads, but perhaps things are starting to slow down. We've watched each collection progress and mimic stages of adult life from infancy and now into college. As a sign of maturity, Goddard has gone one better, creating floral embroidery on apple green netted dresses and matching tights. As someone who still regularly tosses and turns at night lusting over Rodarte's spiderweb tights I have my heart set on owning some of Molly Goddard's hosiery. 

*Images via WWD

Acne Studios Resort 2016

I didn't think it was possible, but a brand has built their reputation on being polished and yet eccentric all at once. At the core of it, the clothes are to the highest standard but the styling is both weird and wonderful. From bowl cuts with purposeful cowlicks and buzz cuts, traditionally masculine haircuts have been softened and the notion of gender blurred. The result is wonderfully eccentric, and pants shrouded by long coats looking not too dissimilar to skirts with deep splits. Also for those concerned with ~trend reports~ (though I despise such superficial, clickbait garbage) pointed shoes are back in vogue. I loved the thick elasticised ankle straps and frayed edges characterising the Acne Resort collection. Like normal people, I do not enjoy sliding around in shoes which do not fit properly, or imagining my shoes slipping off my feet and into a nearby gutter. Unlike thin straps they also don't cut into the skin, although they do result in some interesting tan lines. Tattoo chokers have also enjoyed a recent revival and Acne have done just that- translating something tacky into high fashion.

Images via Vogue.com

Simone Rocha Fall 2015

As always, Simone Rocha has created the most refined collection with her own unique sense of vision. Having watched a short video of her explaining the way she sees her work in relation to art, as well as the work of her mother who creates art installations makes me feel more confident in placing her work within a contextual setting. Her sheer clothing should look as beautiful on a hanger as it does on a model, as well as the people she designs for. Specifically her family, close friends and even the women who work for her. Knowing that personal collections are what shapes her collections makes viewing each runway show even more special. I've decided to dispense with the sheer black coats and dresses and edit how I view the presentation. Regurgitating the same photos most of you would have seen on Style.com doesn't add value, it detracts from it. So instead I've only included the pieces I am most drawn to and currently fawn over. They include immaculate satin floral pieces, dramatic red and white tweed, and pastel pink. Fall and Winter should never be entertained as a dormancy period for our creativity, rather, it should thrive when we have the capabilities to layer our outfits.

Despite my best efforts, I was instantly reminded of previous efforts by Comme Des Garcons when viewing sheer dresses with cloud motifs. Something about those odd, humped shapes and pastel pink reminded me of a softened version of what I had seen seasons ago from Japan. That said, Simone Rocha does not align herself with the mavericks with fashion and has instead carved herself a nice niche and firm spot on the London Fashion Week calender. Indeed, these outfits do look different combining next season's hottest (and most practical trend), wearing your own hair as a scarf. These have been combined with chunky but pristine leather brogues and mid-calf socks. It reminds me so much of how I viewed myself in high school, but in reality I was never cool, first to be picked on and an outsider in every sense of the word. Still, it's somewhat comforting to see myself in a gorgeous, handmade dress in the perfect shade of fairy floss pink. And I could go on and on about the shoes but as always, Simone Rocha has set the benchmark and I'm sure brands like Jeffrey Campbell will be ripping off her designs for years to come.

After distancing myself from the fashion world and learning to accept I can't possibly scroll through my entire Instagram feed, seeing the latest at Brown's made me fall back in love with fashion. Email is so much easier for me to digest information, but even then there are days when I become frustrated with such a tedious process. First world problems aside, these red and white tweed dresses standing alongside the neutral pieces and Digimon graphics of A.W.A.K.E made me realise how special fashion is. Or how important I see personal style as an outlet for creativity and self-expression. Seeing those huge price tags does deflate my ego but it also gives me a huge burst of energy and the need to work harder than ever before. While these motifs seem familiar and the colour palette has become signature to Simone Rocha, floral motifs have become abstract and form. Not only that but rather than confined to a single headscarf, no matter how chic, these patterns have been allowed to blossom (terrible pun- I know) and become the finale of her Fall collection for 2015.

*Images via Vogue.com