Sanjeet Boolell: Aurora Borealis Couture Collection

Yes, I know this collection was showcased a few months ago, but I have to write on it. It stands as one of the most important local fashion shows from an exceptionally talented designer, and is one of the benchmarks that we will look back on when, hopefully, Mauritius will be known for our designers and our textile - not just factories producing clothes for international brands. This is also my hundredth article for Style Mauritius - so we're celebrating two milestones in this article.

Aurora Borealis,

or the northern lights, were Sanjeet Boolell's inspiration for this collection. Each piece uniquely reflected elements of the lights - their free paths, spreading and winding as they please, unconstricted and unrestricted yet possessing definition and shape. The lights dance around in different intensities, opacities; their colours a stark mix of contrast and complements; powerful vivid reds, varying into gentle salmon pink, softer mixes of menthol and powder blues, intense turquoise and silver.

Delicate illusion tulle, silk and satin are played around and layered to create different translucent effects. The pieces captured light, which in turn illuminated the detail of the clothing and the materials used. The fabric draped across the body, exposing skin yet always keeping it elegant and refined. This same elegance was borne in a new way through the collection: the edges of the pieces were often raw, shredded, irregular, to further exemplify the wild beauty of nature - untamed, yet in perfect structure, organic, raw yet refined.

It was also interesting to examine some of the cultural references, the kaftan in particular. Sanjeet Boolell redefines and reconfigures the traditional garment to such an extent that he creates avant-garde pieces, exquisite in their composition of illusion tulle, sequins and chiffon, all possessing a marked Italian aesthetic.

Each piece took three to seven exhausting days to be completed, depending on their complexity, and were fitted and tailored to suit the personality of the models wearing them.

Virus

Model: Anne-lise Ramooloo

Made out of red silk chiffon, with silk and satin panels and a stretch satin bodysuit, used as an undergarment. Both the collar and the bust panels are made out of ruched and micro-pleated silk chiffon. The skirt panel is twinned with the silk and satin panel at the bust, which enables the skirt to flare out serenely.

Red Cardinal

Model: Jasmina Ruben

A three-quarter length dress made out of stretch tulle, with ruched and micro-pleated silk chiffon appliqué. A slashed fabric effect is present at the neck, hem line and around the arm.

Magpie

Model: Genevieve Bruno-Anto

Sequin appliqué on an illusion tulle kaftan, paired with spiral cigarette-silhouette trousers in raw silk.

Zodiac Mint Kiss

Model: Sandrine Sambadoo

Menthol-coloured cape and dress in satin, with red panels and piping used to contrast the colours.

Apocalypto Red

Model: Kate Kunti

Ruched and micro-pleated silk chiffon on illusion tulle, accessorised with a handmade red coral necklace, and paired with slim cut cigarette satin trousers.

Turquoise Mint

Model: Yoshina Ranjaya

Micro-pleated silk chiffon on illusion tulle in the style of a kaftan, paired with satin shorts, and accessorised with a handmade red coral necklace.

Crow

Model: Victoria Seesaha

Kaftan top with micro-pleated silk chiffon on illusion tulle, paired with satin shorts with gathered silk chiffon appliqué.

Marshmallow

Model: Emilie Bauluck

Asymmetrical tailored jacket over a corset, paired with grey and salmon pink trousers in satin.

Offspring

Model: Priscilla Soobhany

Asymmetrical tailored bolero in satin, with elevated raw silk panels on the right sleeve. This is worn over an asymmetrical I-shaped bodycon dress, with winding asymmetrical colour panels of contrasting colours and fabrics in mint-coloured satin and silver-coloured micro-pleated chiffon.

Linear radiation

Model: Janita Deerpaul

A raw silk tailored jacket with silver contrast piping and collar, paired with a short satin bodycon dress.

Black Widow

Model: Rachelle Lacharmante

A corset style top with beading appliqué, micro-pleated silk chiffon on the bust panels. This is worn with an asymmetrical full length skirt with slashed and cut panels in raw silk and micro-pleated silk chiffon, and accessorised with a handmade halo crafted out of stones, wire and strips of leather.

Phoenix

Model: Emily Philips

Tailored jacket in turquoise blue with duchesse silk and micro pleated silk chiffon, combined with contrasting flame orange satin panels at the sleeves and at the back of the garment. This is paired with satin flame orange slim fit trousers, with contrasting turquoise satin piping.

Blue Flamingo

Model: Judith Rouillard

Full-length halter neck dress in satin, silk and micro pleated silk chiffon with Swarovski crystals, with a slashed asymmetrical skirt.

Red-Eyed Pit Viper

Model: Katia Moochooram

Full length asymmetrical slitted dress in micro-pleated silk chiffon, with bright red contrasting colour panels.

Freshwater Catfish

Model: Delphine Dholah

Full length slitted sequin dress with a plunging V back line, where pleated silk chiffon makes up the contour.

Aurora River Salmon

Model: Laetitia Sauzier

Asymmetrical body suit in silk georgette with a butterfly sleeve, with a concentration of beads and Swarovski crystals appliqué on the right breast cup.

Laguna Mist Dress

Model: Miss Uraysha Ramrechia (Miss India World Mauritius 2012)

An asymmetrical full length dress in twisted, creased and micro-pleated silk chiffon, silk and satin, ornamented with a hand crafted crystal broche sewn on the top centre of the piece.

Utopia

Model: Sheliz Wambui

The show stopper: an avant-garde, utopique wedding dress, delicately crafted from fine layers of micro-pleated silk chiffon, gathered illusion tulle, and stretch tulle.