Acne Studios Resort 2016

I didn't think it was possible, but a brand has built their reputation on being polished and yet eccentric all at once. At the core of it, the clothes are to the highest standard but the styling is both weird and wonderful. From bowl cuts with purposeful cowlicks and buzz cuts, traditionally masculine haircuts have been softened and the notion of gender blurred. The result is wonderfully eccentric, and pants shrouded by long coats looking not too dissimilar to skirts with deep splits. Also for those concerned with ~trend reports~ (though I despise such superficial, clickbait garbage) pointed shoes are back in vogue. I loved the thick elasticised ankle straps and frayed edges characterising the Acne Resort collection. Like normal people, I do not enjoy sliding around in shoes which do not fit properly, or imagining my shoes slipping off my feet and into a nearby gutter. Unlike thin straps they also don't cut into the skin, although they do result in some interesting tan lines. Tattoo chokers have also enjoyed a recent revival and Acne have done just that- translating something tacky into high fashion.

Images via Vogue.com

Simone Rocha Fall 2015

As always, Simone Rocha has created the most refined collection with her own unique sense of vision. Having watched a short video of her explaining the way she sees her work in relation to art, as well as the work of her mother who creates art installations makes me feel more confident in placing her work within a contextual setting. Her sheer clothing should look as beautiful on a hanger as it does on a model, as well as the people she designs for. Specifically her family, close friends and even the women who work for her. Knowing that personal collections are what shapes her collections makes viewing each runway show even more special. I've decided to dispense with the sheer black coats and dresses and edit how I view the presentation. Regurgitating the same photos most of you would have seen on Style.com doesn't add value, it detracts from it. So instead I've only included the pieces I am most drawn to and currently fawn over. They include immaculate satin floral pieces, dramatic red and white tweed, and pastel pink. Fall and Winter should never be entertained as a dormancy period for our creativity, rather, it should thrive when we have the capabilities to layer our outfits.

Despite my best efforts, I was instantly reminded of previous efforts by Comme Des Garcons when viewing sheer dresses with cloud motifs. Something about those odd, humped shapes and pastel pink reminded me of a softened version of what I had seen seasons ago from Japan. That said, Simone Rocha does not align herself with the mavericks with fashion and has instead carved herself a nice niche and firm spot on the London Fashion Week calender. Indeed, these outfits do look different combining next season's hottest (and most practical trend), wearing your own hair as a scarf. These have been combined with chunky but pristine leather brogues and mid-calf socks. It reminds me so much of how I viewed myself in high school, but in reality I was never cool, first to be picked on and an outsider in every sense of the word. Still, it's somewhat comforting to see myself in a gorgeous, handmade dress in the perfect shade of fairy floss pink. And I could go on and on about the shoes but as always, Simone Rocha has set the benchmark and I'm sure brands like Jeffrey Campbell will be ripping off her designs for years to come.

After distancing myself from the fashion world and learning to accept I can't possibly scroll through my entire Instagram feed, seeing the latest at Brown's made me fall back in love with fashion. Email is so much easier for me to digest information, but even then there are days when I become frustrated with such a tedious process. First world problems aside, these red and white tweed dresses standing alongside the neutral pieces and Digimon graphics of A.W.A.K.E made me realise how special fashion is. Or how important I see personal style as an outlet for creativity and self-expression. Seeing those huge price tags does deflate my ego but it also gives me a huge burst of energy and the need to work harder than ever before. While these motifs seem familiar and the colour palette has become signature to Simone Rocha, floral motifs have become abstract and form. Not only that but rather than confined to a single headscarf, no matter how chic, these patterns have been allowed to blossom (terrible pun- I know) and become the finale of her Fall collection for 2015.

*Images via Vogue.com

Acne Studios Pre-Fall 2015

Conceptually, Acne are one of my favourite brands. They have an obvious cult following around the world and exude 'cool' from every pore. Yet whenever I scour eBay looking for cheap second hand pieces I always feel uninspired when the clothes are removed from their fantastical environment of runway shows and ultra chic look books. There isn't really a concrete reason as to why I feel uninspired when viewing the same object, other than curating and executing an idea is the key to any brand or blogger's success. It's for this reason that Fall collections are probably my favourite- since there are so many ways of layering and styling each piece. Acne have always done an excellent job creating crazy new shoes which seem strangely futuristic in comparison to their classic woolen coats. 

I'm obviously obsessed with the tongue in cheek 'Say No To Drugs' coat from this collection, but the tights and sneakers combinations is worth borrowing. Tbh I haven't bought a pair of chunky sneakers since I was in high school and styling them terribly but I'm kind of inspired now. Goodness knows I have to make the best of the next couple of months of mild weather before Summer starts and it's too hot to go outside. Another reason why I fawn over Fall collections but meet Resort/ Spring-Summer/ Cruise with some kind of dread and apprehension. For those with a 1960s mod fascination, Acne also made some slamming knee high boots with kooky concealed platform heel and silhouette. I wonder if these clothes are as dreamy in person as they appear under the intense studio lights.

*Images via Vogue.com

Jonathan Saunders Fall 2015

Abstract cumulus clouds, square boxy sunglasses and loosely coiled turtlenecks all contributed to the revival of the 1970s at Jonathan Saunders, whilst everyone else remained firmly enamored with the allure of the sixties. A departure from fringed suede and billowing dresses, Saunders focused on the synthetic or plastic fantastic if you prefer.There was something very Wonka-esque about the entire assortment of candy-colored outfits which drifted down the runway to the tune of George Michael's Careless Whisper. Perhaps it was the eye-popping combinations of purple and red softened by shades of grey and brown. But there was nothing diminutive about this collection, in fact Saunders adopted the mantra of "less is a bore" for this season specifically and cited the music which he chose for the show as something which put a smile on his face. The collections I find most inspiring are those where the designers always demand more of themselves and of their art. In this case Saunders has reconciled work and play beautifully by simply enjoying his craft and being able to create moving art.

Although those technical powder puffs opened and more or less defined the show I fell completely in love with the stripes. Notably Saunders opted for vertical stripes over horizontal stripes, breaking that age old fashion rule. You know me I find so-called fashion rules to be a complete bore and restricting. It's because of these rules that my mother will dictate what I can wear, at what time of day and where irrespective of the harm she may be causing to my self-esteem. So basically, fashion rules suck and creativity is awesome but it looks so glamorous and chic with a pair of laced up thigh high boots. These stripes in particular look more dreamy, colourful and playful than any vintage piece which has had to for survive decades. The same goes for materials such as vinyl which often degrade and can flake which can be exacerbated by wear. It's a real shame but sometimes despite all the love and care our clothes receive it's important to remember that they are material objects and do not experience change and growth the way our bodies do over the course of a lifetime. So sometimes the most healthy thing we can do is to buy something new and enjoy it's short but beautiful lifetime and make sure it gets lots of wear and simply look at each scuff mark as a little memory.

Another aspect which I enjoyed almost unexpectedly were the trousers paired with a simple colour block sweater. They were chic but understated and suited for a more emasculated, 1970s counterpart of Mad Men. The only thing that seemed missing was a cute little clutch purse or something else to create contrast. Even in a frozen snapshot I admire they movement and flow through them, as well as the legacy of slightly frumpy stretched flare pants that went around in the 1990s. If you're not sure what I'm talking about, you should definitely check out this post by Style Bubble here. Although admittedly these pants by Saunders are the cats meow and nothing can quite compare to their lovely tailoring. The simple knitwear made me feel like I was transported to the packaging of a Kodak film roll or something as equally antiquated but colourful. The variation of stripes, as well as vertical patterns emulating wallpaper and interior designs of the seventies made for a smorgasbord of colour. Pleated panels were also used as a substitute for more stripes making the transition from straight vertical stripes to curvilinear rainbows.

I'm not someone who normally delights in the mod aesthetic, save for Shirley Kurata who is definitely a celestial being and not of this world. The narrative of a secretarial workspace has also been recently popularised by a number of designers, choreographing their shows to the typical closing time of any office space. Jonathan Saunders goes beyond each of those two ideals but maintains their whimsical nature in spire of a somewhat dreary or minimalist setting. That brings us back to the Willy Wonka vibes that I mentioned earlier minus a creepy cane or sinister subtext. I can't be the only one who had nightmares haunted by little orange men with green hair or confectionery creations turning on their consumer in an act of revenge. Childhood trauma aside, this upbeat collection was in its own way the physical embodiment of Saunders enthusiasm and delight in his work. It is people like him and Bill Cunningham who take such joy in their work that I idealize above all others. Happiness and good health is what will always matter first, what you're wearing and looks are not nearly as important in the grand scheme of things.

*Images via Vogue.com