Acne Studios Resort 2016

I didn't think it was possible, but a brand has built their reputation on being polished and yet eccentric all at once. At the core of it, the clothes are to the highest standard but the styling is both weird and wonderful. From bowl cuts with purposeful cowlicks and buzz cuts, traditionally masculine haircuts have been softened and the notion of gender blurred. The result is wonderfully eccentric, and pants shrouded by long coats looking not too dissimilar to skirts with deep splits. Also for those concerned with ~trend reports~ (though I despise such superficial, clickbait garbage) pointed shoes are back in vogue. I loved the thick elasticised ankle straps and frayed edges characterising the Acne Resort collection. Like normal people, I do not enjoy sliding around in shoes which do not fit properly, or imagining my shoes slipping off my feet and into a nearby gutter. Unlike thin straps they also don't cut into the skin, although they do result in some interesting tan lines. Tattoo chokers have also enjoyed a recent revival and Acne have done just that- translating something tacky into high fashion.

Images via Vogue.com

Shrimps Resort 2016

In an article penned for Style.com by Emily Farra she noted that 'historically' Resort was once an understated affair comprised of bikinis, dresses and other holiday essentials. However, in recent years the image of Resort has been gently remolded by London based designer and relative newcomer Hannah Weiland. (I say 'relative newcomer' as her brand Shrimps has already reached worldwide acclaim and seen on British IT girl Alexa Chung, as well as Brix Smith-Start, Aimee Phillips and Pixie Geldof JUST TO NAME A FEW). Her label Shrimps is best known for their whimsical faux fur coats, stoles and accessories and this season is familiar and yet new. For one thing her signature pieces were paired with denim-inspired pants and white linen pieces, perpetuating this idea that silk pajamas are perfectly acceptable as daywear and as a university student, can I just say this is possibly the greatest thing to have ever happened.

For one thing, if you own a nice pair of pajamas or vintage bedroom jacket you could only really wear it while on holiday. Or when trying to impress your significant other. If you were to say, go grocery shopping while wearing something ultra comfy you have either a.) lost the plot or b.) are a slob. Or perhaps your underpants radius has expanded so far you are now able to transcend all barriers as a result of a devastating breakup as demonstrated by Marshall in How I Met Your Mother. But now that is all totally OK and what's even better is we can look chic and be comfortable at the same time!! Many probably wouldn't call that progress. I say that since the 1960s there has been a distinct lack of excitement about the future or the cars of tomorrow and I will take pleasure in the little things. Something as simple as an all white outfit, which is despicably difficult to maintain in the first place, can be dressed up with a fabulous fur stole and matching clutch. For mere mortals that seems utterly impossible but I'm sure Bjork would be totally into that. 

Finally while I was pleased with the inclusion of dogs in these photographs I wonder whether the fashion world has been oblivious to their potential up until now. While many animal rights advocates are usually quick to criticise the use of animals in runway shows, as was the case with Discount Universe earlier this year it seems the overwhelming majority of cases involve an assistant's or model's own pooch worming their way into the photos. In the context of this lookbook it subtly signifies the collection's connection with nature, albeit in a very controlled environment. Whatever the true intent I hope this means that more people will dress fabulously when walking their dogs, even if they are just walking to their nearest cafe as is the case in Brunswick. Brunswick being one of the trendier suburbs outside of Melbourne and where I generally hangout whenever possible. But I digress! Knowing that I can wear fur in just about every season, (except Summer because I live in Australia) makes me a happy little pleb.

*Photos via style.com

Gucci Resort 2016

Just about everything I've read so far about Gucci drew comparisons with Wes Anderson and I would tend to agree that there is something very Anderson-esque about these characters. That term by the way was coined by the legendary Roger Ebert who penned many essays on Anderson's work which I highly recommend. When combined with those lush Persian carpets used to line the runway it evokes scenes from the director's opus The Grand Budapest Hotel (2014) as well as stills from Hotel Chevalier (2007). There's so much more going on though it seems almost an insult to simplify the collection even when it parallels the work of one of my favourite artists. For one thing, this collections seems to hark back to 2009, i.e. the golden years before blogging had made waves in social media and fashion was both frivolous and fun. Outfits were less focused on curating the work of the latest IT designer and more about experimentation. The blogosphere was a tight-knit community of women genuinely interested in sharing ideas and catchy taglines such as "follow for follow" had not yet been coined. Frankly, we were all the more richer for it. 

The collection as a whole makes me pine for simple times when billowing, vintage pieces could be worn with the latest trends as seen from the high street and pairs of kooky oversized glasses were inching their way into fashion. The latter have of course become synonymous with the archetypal Manic Pixie Dream Girl (a term which still lingers much to creator Nathan Rabin's displeasure) but it's interesting to note how quickly they have been revived. This is largely due to the Internet expediting the rate at which we share information and ultimately consume trends. So basically everything that was old or tired has become vintage within the span of less than a decade and we are all time-travelers of our own making. I feel like Doc Brown but without the messy clumps of wild white hair but I suppose those puppy dog eyes will look only larger and even more sad behind grandma's glasses. 

For me growing up Gucci was never synonymous with the most up to date trends but rather handbags and inevitably cheap knock-offs. I'm starting to realise there is a renaissance within the fashion world in terms of traditional houses experiencing life anew, or when scrawling through archives online, that these brands were always cool and sophisticated. I was just unable to appreciate their beauty until now. Although logos experienced their moment in the sun only a few seasons ago I feel that without omnipresent logos chasing me up and down the street I am at ease with a brand's personal image. For Gucci that meant the occasional appearance of their signature stripes of hardware details appearing on some shoes and handbags. In many ways this replaced the monogrammed luggage carried by the Whitman Brothers across India on their shared journey of self-discovery. It allowed me to become comfortable with the collection and adopt the position of an observed, rather than a potential consumer. 

One final thought on the collection was the transformative nature of the humble beret and accessories as a whole. Without them any echo of Suzy Bishop- possibly Wes Anderson's finest troubled teenager would be all but lost (sorry Margot). Suzy's mother Laura Bishop also made a cameo appearance in the Gucci collection in the form of fashionable glasses, head scarf and the dreamiest quilted satin coat imaginable. This outfit has been etched into folklore as the "leaving your husband/ family outfit" and really nothing could look more classy and yet cold-blooded. It is as iconic as stills from Thelma & Louise and derivatives including but not limited to Marge Simpson's friendship with Ruth Powers. This outfit is typically worn by women portrayed as callous or with selfish motivations which seem all the more jarring given how feminine and therefore vulnerable their attire. Housewives are more powerful and influential than many can imagine and it is for this very reason that they are oppressed by the men who pretend to love them. And on that note, I'll leave you to ponder the universe.  

1- 7 via Fashion Sizzle, 8- 28 via Footwear News.