Phiney Pet Spring 2016

Once again, I've missed out on all the fun and frivolity of London Fashion Week on a technicality: living on the other side of the world in Melbourne. It's not all doom and gloom though, at least I got to see the presentation for Phiney Pet's glorious, 'let them eat cake' inspired Spring 2016 collection. Let them Eat Cake is unofficial, please don't quote me on that, but it's so fitting considering there were handpainted biscuits including jammie dodgers and a bonnet? Like an actual bonnet, you wear on your head. Remember when Dazed announced on Twitter that Bonnetcore was going to be the next trend? Ah, memories. So that CLEARLY did not happen (for better or worse) but there were a number of cute hats which disgruntled old people, namely my mother would be offended by, especially when worn by young people. It's amazing how a straw accessory can be improved upon when black flocked tulle and smart ribbon are employed with artistic flair. I still hate straw handbags though, always have and always will. Straw boaters are still utterly charming and make me wish I had the conviction to dress like I wear a school uniform everyday for the rest of my life. 

 Unlike a school uniform, Phiney Pet is a whimsical myriad of pastels, lace and gingham. If Marie Antoinette were a spoiled brat living today, preferably in Notting Hill, she'd be all over this collection like a bad rash. What do I mean by that? Well, for one thing, the bands of lace on the shorts and trousers of this collection are not too dissimilar from the layers of a cake. Particularly a wedding cake produced by a tormented baker, forced to emulate the colours and decor of the tables. Now, I know nothing about baking and I'm not saying that you should take head of anything that may or may not revolve around a rolling pin but that sounds tortuous, even to me. On the other hand, sewing a bunch of cute frilly layers onto an otherwise stiff pair of shorts sounds nothing short of marvelous. If you like dressing like a cake (I know I do).

What I did find surprising is that Phiney Pet teamed up with Teva. I've never really understood the appeal of Teva or Birkenstock (and the judgmental bitch in me usually labels those who wear them as basic) but I actually really liked these sandals. I couldn't find any close up photos of them on the Phiney Pet Facebook page, which is where I got these photos, but they were embellished with the ribbons which appeared on the pastel green tulle dress. I also really like the long leg, big clumpy shoe trend and like to wear the look as often as possible. More so in summer for obvious logistical reasons. So for a big nerd like myself, it's easy to imagine oneself hunching over old sandals and giving them a new lease on life after a trip to the craft store. That kind of DIY is made easier when one has easy access to a hot blue gun, but for those more invested in making handmade things last a long time, sewing sequins or buttons or whatever is also an option.

A lot of the visuals reminded me of vintage Disney as imagined by animator Mary Blair. A lot of that has to do with the imagery of small woodland creatures, a la Bambi or Snow White alongside kawaii birthday cakes. The hand-painted leather jackets, which I practically cried over they were so good also featured a similar mix of small baby animals in pastel colours and common items from the kitchen. In that way it was very much an amalgamation between nursery rhymes, Beauty and the Beast and The Great British Bake Off. For those who hate baked goods (do people like that exist?) there were a number of intricate floral pieces and tulle dresses which completely swallowed the bodies of the models. There was basically something for everyone, and for people like me, everything spoke to them on a spiritual level, but also facilitated the intellectualization of any and every piece. I have a lot of love and respect for this brand, so it makes me even happier that they've made their clothes commercially available. Unfortunately, my bank account isn't quite as happy.

*Photos via PhineyPet.com

Katie Jones Spring 2016

Katie Jones is a true revolutionary, proving that recycled and reclaimed materials can be just as beautiful, if not more. By marrying ethical consumerism with vibrant colors and motifs her visually striking approach is distinct from any of her contemporaries. For Spring 2016 she's knitted up another storm of color and texture, proving that her material of choice isn't just for Fall. Vibrant crop tops, crocheted mini skirts and drawstring bucket bags are just some of the items she's lovingly crafted which seem perfect for a day at the seaside. The collection looks it's best and brightest in front of a festive cactus, hot pink backdrop and studio lighting channeling Marina and the Diamond's latest album, Froots. In fact, I wouldn't be at all surprised if some inspiration was taken from the British songstress. The whole collection is a mashup of British iconography, best described as a mashup of pop stars and British celebrities from two different eras, the present-day and swinging 1960s. In a single phrase: Twiggy meets Froots. 

In case the reference wasn't obvious, the intense artificial lighting and vibrant colors is reminiscent of Marina and the Diamond's latest album cover, and the bold eyeliner was championed by the mod model Twiggy. Their sum is greater than their equal parts and when combined, has created something just as iconic, playful and innovative. Leather patches, crochet, plastic and yarn are used as a highly unusual canvas, upon which, Jones has created a landscape of festive clothing. Every season she reinvents the humble denim jacket, emblazoned with her own range of iconography in the form of stars, hearts and flowers. If you were lucky enough to attend this year's Port Elliot Festival, you might have even attended her workshop and incorporated some of these leather offcuts in a Katie Jones inspired DIY. This season is no exception, although baggy jumpers and the most amazing pair of custom jeans were also in the mix. Basically, those jeans are everything I want and more from a pair of pants.

If you've read my reviews of her work before, you'll know I'm a big fan of her work and modus operandi. Sidebar: If you're particularly interested in ethical design, I recommend keeping up with Katie Jones on twitter or instagram, or by checking out the hashtag, #WASTENOT. While some designers struggle to make it a part of their business model, or only achieve some form of tokenism in their approach, Katie Jones ensures it's an integral part of her identity as a designer. The techniques she employs only promotes this knack for reclaimed and recycled materials, but it's so interesting that a young and relatively new designers has taken on this approach with such fantastical results. She's also really grown her brand laterally this season, putting greater emphasis on accessories, such as the pom pom earrings, hair ribbons and custom crochet sandals, a collaboration with Juju footwear. It's only a matter of time before she's able to make her work a commercial success, and I for one cannot wait.

Chloe McDonald 2015

I've long maintained that graduate collections are among the most interesting and innovative but it seems the next generation from Westminster are proving that they are ready for commercial success as well. I was instantly reminded of Japanese designers such as Comme Des Garcons as well as the artistic flair of Claire Barrow. It also marked a badass transition from the typical winged eyeliner which every 20-something year old was obsessed with. Aside from the biker jackets, spontaneous use of tinsel and metallic threads I loved the thick strapped sandals. They reminded me so much of Agyness Deyn's collaboration for Dr Martens released a few years ago which simply reinforces this idea of the London fashion scene being a tight knit community. Obviously the shoes were the icing on some kind of extended metaphor about a cake because the biker jackets were without a doubt the centre of attention. Although it seems that each look is simply derivative of a single idea, if you look closely each jacket was made from a different designs. I did a little sewing as a sophomore in high school but I can only imagine how difficult it would be to work with leather. That's part of the reason why McDonald is seriously deserving of praise and accolades.

*Photos via WestminsterFashion

Gucci Resort 2016

Just about everything I've read so far about Gucci drew comparisons with Wes Anderson and I would tend to agree that there is something very Anderson-esque about these characters. That term by the way was coined by the legendary Roger Ebert who penned many essays on Anderson's work which I highly recommend. When combined with those lush Persian carpets used to line the runway it evokes scenes from the director's opus The Grand Budapest Hotel (2014) as well as stills from Hotel Chevalier (2007). There's so much more going on though it seems almost an insult to simplify the collection even when it parallels the work of one of my favourite artists. For one thing, this collections seems to hark back to 2009, i.e. the golden years before blogging had made waves in social media and fashion was both frivolous and fun. Outfits were less focused on curating the work of the latest IT designer and more about experimentation. The blogosphere was a tight-knit community of women genuinely interested in sharing ideas and catchy taglines such as "follow for follow" had not yet been coined. Frankly, we were all the more richer for it. 

The collection as a whole makes me pine for simple times when billowing, vintage pieces could be worn with the latest trends as seen from the high street and pairs of kooky oversized glasses were inching their way into fashion. The latter have of course become synonymous with the archetypal Manic Pixie Dream Girl (a term which still lingers much to creator Nathan Rabin's displeasure) but it's interesting to note how quickly they have been revived. This is largely due to the Internet expediting the rate at which we share information and ultimately consume trends. So basically everything that was old or tired has become vintage within the span of less than a decade and we are all time-travelers of our own making. I feel like Doc Brown but without the messy clumps of wild white hair but I suppose those puppy dog eyes will look only larger and even more sad behind grandma's glasses. 

For me growing up Gucci was never synonymous with the most up to date trends but rather handbags and inevitably cheap knock-offs. I'm starting to realise there is a renaissance within the fashion world in terms of traditional houses experiencing life anew, or when scrawling through archives online, that these brands were always cool and sophisticated. I was just unable to appreciate their beauty until now. Although logos experienced their moment in the sun only a few seasons ago I feel that without omnipresent logos chasing me up and down the street I am at ease with a brand's personal image. For Gucci that meant the occasional appearance of their signature stripes of hardware details appearing on some shoes and handbags. In many ways this replaced the monogrammed luggage carried by the Whitman Brothers across India on their shared journey of self-discovery. It allowed me to become comfortable with the collection and adopt the position of an observed, rather than a potential consumer. 

One final thought on the collection was the transformative nature of the humble beret and accessories as a whole. Without them any echo of Suzy Bishop- possibly Wes Anderson's finest troubled teenager would be all but lost (sorry Margot). Suzy's mother Laura Bishop also made a cameo appearance in the Gucci collection in the form of fashionable glasses, head scarf and the dreamiest quilted satin coat imaginable. This outfit has been etched into folklore as the "leaving your husband/ family outfit" and really nothing could look more classy and yet cold-blooded. It is as iconic as stills from Thelma & Louise and derivatives including but not limited to Marge Simpson's friendship with Ruth Powers. This outfit is typically worn by women portrayed as callous or with selfish motivations which seem all the more jarring given how feminine and therefore vulnerable their attire. Housewives are more powerful and influential than many can imagine and it is for this very reason that they are oppressed by the men who pretend to love them. And on that note, I'll leave you to ponder the universe.  

1- 7 via Fashion Sizzle, 8- 28 via Footwear News.