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Showing posts with label London Fashion Week. Show all posts
Showing posts with label London Fashion Week. Show all posts

Phiney Pet Spring 2016

Monday, November 23, 2015

Once again, I've missed out on all the fun and frivolity of London Fashion Week on a technicality: living on the other side of the world in Melbourne. It's not all doom and gloom though, at least I got to see the presentation for Phiney Pet's glorious, 'let them eat cake' inspired Spring 2016 collection. Let them Eat Cake is unofficial, please don't quote me on that, but it's so fitting considering there were handpainted biscuits including jammie dodgers and a bonnet? Like an actual bonnet, you wear on your head. Remember when Dazed announced on Twitter that Bonnetcore was going to be the next trend? Ah, memories. So that CLEARLY did not happen (for better or worse) but there were a number of cute hats which disgruntled old people, namely my mother would be offended by, especially when worn by young people. It's amazing how a straw accessory can be improved upon when black flocked tulle and smart ribbon are employed with artistic flair. I still hate straw handbags though, always have and always will. Straw boaters are still utterly charming and make me wish I had the conviction to dress like I wear a school uniform everyday for the rest of my life. 



 Unlike a school uniform, Phiney Pet is a whimsical myriad of pastels, lace and gingham. If Marie Antoinette were a spoiled brat living today, preferably in Notting Hill, she'd be all over this collection like a bad rash. What do I mean by that? Well, for one thing, the bands of lace on the shorts and trousers of this collection are not too dissimilar from the layers of a cake. Particularly a wedding cake produced by a tormented baker, forced to emulate the colours and decor of the tables. Now, I know nothing about baking and I'm not saying that you should take head of anything that may or may not revolve around a rolling pin but that sounds tortuous, even to me. On the other hand, sewing a bunch of cute frilly layers onto an otherwise stiff pair of shorts sounds nothing short of marvelous. If you like dressing like a cake (I know I do).




What I did find surprising is that Phiney Pet teamed up with Teva. I've never really understood the appeal of Teva or Birkenstock (and the judgmental bitch in me usually labels those who wear them as basic) but I actually really liked these sandals. I couldn't find any close up photos of them on the Phiney Pet Facebook page, which is where I got these photos, but they were embellished with the ribbons which appeared on the pastel green tulle dress. I also really like the long leg, big clumpy shoe trend and like to wear the look as often as possible. More so in summer for obvious logistical reasons. So for a big nerd like myself, it's easy to imagine oneself hunching over old sandals and giving them a new lease on life after a trip to the craft store. That kind of DIY is made easier when one has easy access to a hot blue gun, but for those more invested in making handmade things last a long time, sewing sequins or buttons or whatever is also an option.



A lot of the visuals reminded me of vintage Disney as imagined by animator Mary Blair. A lot of that has to do with the imagery of small woodland creatures, a la Bambi or Snow White alongside kawaii birthday cakes. The hand-painted leather jackets, which I practically cried over they were so good also featured a similar mix of small baby animals in pastel colours and common items from the kitchen. In that way it was very much an amalgamation between nursery rhymes, Beauty and the Beast and The Great British Bake Off. For those who hate baked goods (do people like that exist?) there were a number of intricate floral pieces and tulle dresses which completely swallowed the bodies of the models. There was basically something for everyone, and for people like me, everything spoke to them on a spiritual level, but also facilitated the intellectualization of any and every piece. I have a lot of love and respect for this brand, so it makes me even happier that they've made their clothes commercially available. Unfortunately, my bank account isn't quite as happy.

*Photos via PhineyPet.com

Mary Benson Spring 2016

Wednesday, October 14, 2015





Lately it's been easier to aesthetically cataloging various fashion collections instead of exhaustively reviewing them. The words aren't coming easily. I've put a lot of pressure on myself to maintain this blog and make it as good as I feel it can be. But doing all that whilst still trying to write my thesis/ apply for a PhD/ apply for jobs isn't easy either. While I've always had the opinion that blogs which don't, at least sometimes have a strong written component I'm beginning to see visual expression as valid as written content. To celebrate Mary Benson's Spring 2016 collection, I searched for images from Rookie Mag but some Hole references for good measure. The motifs on her clothes, emphasized using glittery holographic foil, as well as crystal embellished sunglasses celebrated emotional outpourings. I love her fantastical designs, and to see someone celebrate gushing tears down models faces gave validation to every time I had to run to the bathroom and cry. 








This collection also served for the best moodboard of all the makeup looks I need to try out as soon as I can blog on a regular basis. I'd love to be a little more experimental with how I wear makeup, without the marginalization of certain groups through cultural appropriation. Basically it seems that wearing glitter and celebrating all things synthetic and plastic is the best way to go. I have lots of book contact which would be perfect for removable tears running down my cheeks and onto my neck. It's certainly a lot easier than trying to perfect my makeup using permanent markers or texta when I still struggle to make my winged eyeliner symmetrical... But I suppose the point is to not conform to unrealistic beauty standards (including perfect symmetry) but to dress in a way that matches how I feel that day or channel a certain energy. Yes it's cliche, but the alternative is to just throw on a clean shirt and pair of jeans for the rest of my life and live within a cookie cutter mold. 






Aside from the tears and glitter, another motif from this collection were the creepy eyeballs. It almost exists as an extensive of the land of Oz, populated by living forests. This time each eyeball pertained to a globular flower or bush. Since it's October (and Tumblr has become one big advertisement for pumpkins and skeletons), I can openly appreciate things which are both beautiful and creepy. It seems that cartoon lips and eyes will continue to be popular with fashion designers and artists on etsy and I for one couldn't be more excited. Unfortunately it seems that noses aren't as popular, in fashion or on instagram but I'm going to keep hoping I see them up there one day (!!) Anatomy aside, it was cool to see bell sleeves and raw denim jackets with a difference, amongst all the 1970s hysteria that the fashion world seems heavily tied up on. It was cool for the first couple of months, but I'm wondering what Topshop will stock once the gravy train is over and people are looking for The Next Trend.  





Backstage at Mary Benson SS16, photography Chloé Le Drezen.
2- Courtney Love 'Miss World' video, 5- Courtney Love. 9, 17, 21- Stars in my Eyes by .
12- Rookie Yearbook Three.

Molly Goddard Spring 2016

Saturday, October 3, 2015




When interviewed by Susie Bubble for Topshop's Youtube channel, Molly Goddard hinted at more of her tulle and embellished creations. The idea that something inexpensive such as tulle or calico being transformed through hours of work and various techniques shines through once more. Goddard's signature designs, loosely based on the designer's own baby clothes have carried her in good stead throughout several seasons at London Fashion Week. Last season saw an impromptu art lesson complete with live drawing class. The nature of the show in itself turned heads, but perhaps things are starting to slow down. We've watched each collection progress and mimic stages of adult life from infancy and now into college. As a sign of maturity, Goddard has gone one better, creating floral embroidery on apple green netted dresses and matching tights. As someone who still regularly tosses and turns at night lusting over Rodarte's spiderweb tights I have my heart set on owning some of Molly Goddard's hosiery. 




*Images via WWD

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