Victoria Rowe 2013

Fluorescent yellow has always been a colour which has both transfixed and terrified me. Periodically fashion bloggers will employ it in contrast to their own monochrome wardrobe and in the blink of an eye the shade will fall out of favour and vanish in an instant. Unlike those dime a dozen fashion bloggers, Victoria Rowe has managed to employ this tricky shade in the most clever of ways- paired with the sassiness of a Disney Villain. That's the impression I was struck with and couldn't shake- the smouldering eyeshadow, slick black boots and the sensational leather jacket all screamed evildoer. It seems fitting that while the world eagerly awaits more trailers for the latest DC blockbuster, Suicide Squad (not sure how to feel about the title tbh), I trawl the Westminster archives for a designer who inspires such beauty and darkness. Purposefully threadbare sweaters and skirts shrouded the body in multiple layers and removed the usual sweet and honestly tacky connotations of fluorescent yellow. Instead of resenting what that peculiar shade of yellow represents amongst commercial practice I have something else to consider now.

*Images via Westminster Fashion

Caroline Day 2015

Revolutionaries such as Ari Seth Cohen and his mature lady muses have changed public perception of senior citizens but also personal style. The colours, textures, cuts and patchwork all remind me of the quirky creations you might see at a Country Womens Association in your typical small town. The eclectic, homely and a cacophony of materials have shaped Caroline Day's graduate collection at the Westminster Fashion show. Judicious pinning and ruching helped to create a more sculptural figure which was in turn smothered by a large billowing cape inspired by the chic boudoir jackets of yesteryear. Combined with the lace doilies from your grandmothers house, quite possibly her antique quilt and treasures from her wardrobe accumulated over a lifetime. There's a definite sense that well-worn clothes are being cited as possible inspirations, reinforced only by clunky school shoes in contrast to ragged hems. For anyone who was left feeling a bit lost amongst the couture collections, saddened by the prospect of never seeing them in person much less wearing those spectacular frocks be comforted in the fact that you can create your own brand of cool clothing.

*Images via Westminster Fashion

Molly Goddard Fall 2015

I realised I hadn't finished writing this blog post when Molly Goddard followed me on Instagram and my god I have never felt such a strange combination of both guilt and excitement. The premise for her most recent London Fashion Week presentation was absolutely exceptional featuring life drawing class complete with nude model. Although I think fashion goers were somewhat putt-off or confronted with "the elephant in the room" many appreciated Goddard's cake like designs. Or the playful narrative: Art imitating life imitating art. In a way that theme has dominated editorials and fashion photography within the last six months but very few designers have been willing to tackle the theme in a live show. Or rather no one has been as explicit as Molly Goddard without being overt or gauche. Everything she does has a certain subtlety to it. At a first glance her dresses appear relatively simple and straightforward but on closer inspection it's obvious each is made with meticulously and with care. Tulle panels and ruching were the star of the show but again Goddard was able to reinvent herself and demonstrate new techniques combined with her signature style. 

Last season's the dresses were the embodiment of the spirit of sweet sixteen with the iconic presentation taking place at a deconstructed birthday party. In a way, we as consumers are watching the development of a character in parallel with Molly Goddard's expanding skill set. Her graduate collection was a grownup interpretation of the clothes a baby would be baptised in and her character's are aging at an alarming rate. I suppose this is more interesting as it celebrates the milestone events in a woman's life in a way that allows Goddard to experiment with her signature sheer and tulle creations. I find it fascinating that as a young designer she has taken this approach and progressively works on each collection as a facet of her life and narrative of a greater story. It's a shame that many more designers don't join her on this approach but for certain bands each album is like a part of a greater anthology. In much the same way Goddard works with a certain kind of rare perspective on what the implications of each collection are. Simultaneous to that she is able to create beautiful which are also a commercial success and feed the artistic community nestled in the heart of London.

I love the way Molly installed herself as the art teacher and overseer to this entire performance and she looked as proud as punch. Too rightly of course, given just how bewitching the atmosphere of the room was. On a personal level I always associate art at a high school level with tons of really bad advice and the subjectivity of a portfolio, hence why I avoided it entirely and stuck to studying science. But of course if I could do it all over again I think I'd at least like to apply myself since I have a better idea of what kind of project I'd like to overtake. The black creepers were the perfect shoe to highlight the bottled up teen angst associated with our high school years as well as popular London subcultures which were active right about the time Goddard was a student herself. Like last season each outfit was styled by Goddard's sister Alice hence the use of black nail polish and black rubber bracelets emphasizing the stereotypical art scene. It's the attention to detail which always contributes in my mind to the reputation of a designer at any level. I look forward to her next collection and the concept behind her presentation at London Fashion Week as well as how fashion bloggers style her wonderful dresses.

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