Clio Peppiatt Spring 2015

Considering I’ve been stalking this designer for months on social media, it seems ludicrous that I haven’t had time to properly introduce Clio Peppiatt! I posted an outfit inspired by the British designer a while ago, but never really took the time to discuss her work??? Yeah, basically even I’m surprised by that gross oversight. Clio Peppiatt has been active since Fall 2014, but I decided to review her most recent collection first. While chronological order has its appeal (for very obvious reasons), since I have so much blogging to catch up on I’d prefer to have a holistic view on what’s coming out of London Fashion Week before rummaging through archives and focusing on each designer individually. There’s a bunch of amazing British designers with an insane online following and well-defined aesthetic who I find absolutely inspiring in terms of producing color, often hand-illustrated work. So, without further ado: Clio Peppiatt.

It’s not a collection which can be easily pigeon-holed within a certain motif or concept, which is kind of the reason why I like it so much. Each piece stands out on its own, with the commonalities being a pastel color palette and ruffles Carmen Miranda style. The lookbook itself is reminiscent of Wes Anderson's Bottle Rocket, with just a lil' bit of American Hustle through the “rose-tinted lens” of photographer Alex Prager.  The collection was in fact, shot by Nadia Lee Cohen, however, the low angle shots and heavily processed images creating distinctly surreal blue skies reminds me a lot of Prager’s narrative photo series. In much the same way, it feels like there’s a story hidden in here somewhere but we’re not seeing the full picture. The clothes however, remain the star of the show and are heavily intertwined with the creatives at Polyester Zine, particularly founding editor in chief, Ione Gamble, who owns a pair of custom knee high boots from this very collection. 

As daft as it may sound I’m always a little overwhelmed when it comes to dreaming up outfits for Summer, particularly on those 100 degree days when my entire face feels like it’s melting and my arm pits have bad breath. I had every intention of buying the ruffle shrimp top from this very collection, however, even the best laid plans can sometimes go amiss. I had hoped to buy it on sale (sometimes discount codes are announced via the ClioPeppiatt Instagram account, however, it seems like I’ve been out of luck for the last couple of months. That, and I’d also love to own that mermaid bodysuit. The colors are absolutely perfect, it looks just like something Kailey from Mermaidens would wear. I’d love to know if, like me, you have a favorite piece from this collection and how/ when you would wear it! Also since I have nothing but time on my hands and there’s a cool designer you’ve been crushing on lately I’m dying to know (hint hint, comment below!) I'd also though I'd mention that Clio Peppiatt are currently looking for interns in London between November and February. If you're interested, shoot them an email!

Bustier Collective

More and more we're beginning to see classy ways of wearing a bustier top, be it with a pair of chandelier earrings or pant suit with sneakers. Or you could pull a T-Swift and pair them with high-waisted pants, hiding any trace of a belly button and allowing the world to ponder whether you have one at all. Still, they're an item worn by the extraordinarily skinny women of the fashion world, but there's plenty of plus size women who are making the trend their own. Again, high fashion isn't really pandering to these kind of women, and any kind of progress is small but with Beth Ditto walking at the latest Marc Jacobs collection at New York Fashion Week is definitely a step in the right direction (haha puns). Of course the trend is also trickling down into the high street, with brands carried by Asos such as Missguided making some really cute, pattern bralettes with lace and metallic finishes. I'm dying to know if you guys know of where to buy cool bustier tops!

1- unknown, 2- Kayla Scott by Steven Meisel for Vogue Italia May 2015, 3- Photographed by Theo Sion for for The Gentlewoman FW 15, 4- Vanessa Axente by Josh Olins in 'Island Dressing' WSJ Magazine, April 2015. 5, 8, 11- FKA Twigs performs on Day One of the Osheaga Music and Arts Festival on July 31, 2015 in Montreal, Canada. 6- Frankie Rayder by Raymond Meier for British Vogue, September 2003. 7- Lauren de Graaf at Fausto Puglisi Spring 2016 RTW. 9- Chloë Sevigny. 10- Malaika Firth - Diane von FurstenbergSpring-Summer 2015.

Dyspnea Spring 2015

The downside to fashion week in Australia is that even when a designer does create a perfect collection, they receive only a fraction of the recognition they deserve. It's a real tragedy in every sense of the word. Maybe if Dypsnea had shown their runway collection at New York these talented babes could have achieved world domination by now. I thought there would be a noticeable spike in interest after their runway show finished streaming, but I guess not. Although not wearable and definitely not for the faint of heart each piece is a thing of beauty. It's hard for me not to get excited when there's so much fluff and marabou going on, as embellishments of the clothes themselves as well as the boudoir kitten heels. Although this collection is not yet available for pre-order there are a range of gorgeous pieces encompassing sheer, sequins and fur. Basically Dyspnea have everything you need to stay fabulous for any occasion, preferably during the warmer seasons. 

Images 1-4 from Stefan Gosatti for Getty Images, photos 5-8 via Fashion Blender

Ashish Spring 2015

In what can only be described as a teenage fangirls fantasy dream come true Ashish Gupta delivered the jewel in the crown of London Fashion Week. Models walked the runway well endowed in sparkly highlights, equally impressive eyeshadow, cocktail jewellery and stunning designs showcasing sequins pop culture references. It's for this very reason that fashion, even the unattainable collections costing hundreds of dollars are so important. Put simply they record our history, reflect of the values our society upholds and more recently are a kind of portal into the online world. While I enjoy watching online medium such as blogs and websites create physical content, namely books I am more interested in capturing a snapshot of popular culture. Tumblr and Instagram are good examples, however there's something strangely satisfying about being able to wear it. Something primitive, as if to pledge allegiance to a tribe. Of course I'm terribly biased since I am someone who obsesses over what they wear and clothing as wearable art. 

What was most heart-warming about this collection, aside from Harry Style's face on a pair of jeans was the casting. Women and men of colour proudly strut down the runway and brought out the best in the clothes. The hair extensions, sequins and colours were made all the more richer and the marabou platform sandals were fit for a queen. What's more, Winnie Harlow closed the show in a gorgeous black cocktail dress and equally impressive jewellery. It truly marks a change in the fashion industry, driven by a designer no less to see greater diversity within the fashion world. Were it not for Ashish Gupta's exceptional and exemplary vision I don't think the collection would have had nearly the same impact. There's no doubt in my mind that this is not a world first, but it is significant as it marks a first for London Fashion Week. The event receives unprecedented levels of coverage and permeates all levels of society. Young girls would see themselves represented here and feel beautiful and it is for this reason that representation is important. 

My favourite piece from the collection is definitely this sequined shirt, Hi Hater on the front and Bye Hater on the back. I specifically had this piece in mind as I wrote the introduction and discussed Internet culture. It does, however, elude to the slightly darker aspects of online culture but disregards them in a very fun, positive way. In a sign from the universe it's even on sale now at Browns but heaven knows I can't afford something so luxurious. I'm also super broke after spending a week interstate to complete some coursework for my degree which is driving me to sell some pieces that just don't get enough love. I've been slowly trying to reduce the amount of clutter both in my wardrobe and the objects around my room but I've barely made a dent. Within a few months I seem to have collected what I had tried to hard to get rid of. When I look around at all that I have and I ask the question, "Does this add value to my life?" in many instances the answer is a resounding NO. It's definitely forced me to reevaluate my consumerist behavior and yet, inevitably, I will always want more.
 

Although Kimye were no where to be seen at fashion week last season, they did however make a sparkly debut on the runway in the form of a cute pullover sweater. Many would say it's not the same but as someone who has managed to happily avoid the Kardashian's (as much as the next person) this is quite enough. Pop icons such as Miley Cyrus and One Direction (prior to Zayne's departure from the boy band) were also in the mix. While Miley is still rocking the same haircut and bright red lipstick within the space of a few months the dynamic of 1D has changed. There are many who remain unaffected by the fixture change but for diehard fans the news was devastating. Again, this solidifies and adds weight to my argument that clothing, when combined with popular culture can act as a time capsule. Trawling through fashion archives reflects the changes in society, morality, or even the discovery of new techniques. Clothing is so much more than providing us with the basin need and necessity to keep warm. 

Photos taken by Alessandro Garofalo / Indigitalimages.com