(a)It's getting really cold.
(b)Cruise collections are not over yet,and it's impossible to write a good article on all the trends if everything hasn't been seen yet.
(c)You are not going to buy your winter clothing in the middle of winter-you will buy it around now.
Before I start,I would like to remind everyone that I post on Friday mornings,and as soon as I publish I put a link on my facebook page:http://www.facebook.com/StyleMauritius .The latest post is displayed on the home page.
Note:Looks to love refers to the outfit which,according to me,is one of the best examples of the trend and will remain as a moment in fashion.I also elaborate on a particular designer's collection when it was very important and stands out.
There were many trends showcased for the Fall/Winter collections,starting with
Androgyny
What: Clothing that possesses characteristics of both sexes.
Where : Dolce & Gabbana, Chanel,Celine, Jean Paul Gaultier,Balmain,Stella McCartney,Balenciaga....
Beauty: Thick but groomed eyebrows,waxed hair with sideburns etc.
Dolce & Gabbana Balmain
Chanel Jean Paul Gaultier
Look to love:The Chanel look above..A mannish simple matte black jacket,paired with a super tailored cropped green tweed jacket with embellished buttons,fingerless gloves,loose masculine cut trousers and boots.
Trend:This is androgyny but the woman retains her femininity.Dolce&Gabbana went for a sexier version of the trend-cropped jumpers,silk trousers,all fitted to the woman,whilst Chanel went for a looser,urban-dark-masculine tailored approach.Balmain kept it structured with clean lines whilst Jean Paul Gaultier went for a much older woman.
How to wear it:Think strict,mannish shapes paired with soft,loose materials with a sexier edge e.g silk,or with feminine accessories.Don't be afraid to clash materials.It should all look grunge,urban yet tailored.
Here are two very easy looks to try:
Look 1 (inspired by Chanel):Loose trousers in a heavier material+plain matte black jacket,also heavy in material+super tailored feminine cropped jacket.
Look 2:White shirt+striped black trousers+waistcoat,buttoned up+thick wool jumper,unbuttoned.
You should also look for feminine cuts when working this trend,say a plunging V-neck,and then contrast with mannish cuts.Flat boots and brogues are always essential.
I would like to elaborate more on Celine here,because it's one of the best collections.She has pioneered boyish minimalist cool,this season bringing in second skin turtlenecks,tapered ankle zip pants,streamlined coats,vinyl jackets and upholstery.The inspiration was of a super car-fast,strong and powerful.
I would also like to elaborate on Chanel:
In a post apocalyptic world in which the woman has adopted a different armour,the clothes that appeared were dramatic,androgynous,reminiscent of the old glamorous world but reworked to fit the present dark times.Dense,raw tweed,boiler suits,tactile princess coats and empire line dresses were all on show.
Colour
What: Colour-need I say more?
Where:Marc Jacobs,Fendi,Gucci,Thakoon,Michael Kors...
Beauty:Nails,lips,eyes,cheeks...
Miu Miu Michael Kors
Gucci Haider Ackermann
Looks to love:Everything.From the alcohol inspired colours (wine,cider etc) to the bright eye poppers,it's a great trend to work.Just beware of coloured fur here.
Trend: Colour-engulfing the runways for Spring/Summer 2011-now returns for fall.Whilst super brights still dominate,more sober,autumnal tones come into play,so you have as many hues and palettes imaginable to play on.The most en vogue?Yellow.
How to wear it:As usual,focus on fabric,material,texture to get a look that is just perfect.The look from Haider Ackermann focused on silky fabrics,jewel tones and draping,which makes your outfit interesting.Michael Kors,on the other hand,went for extreme vivid colour.
You can choose one super colourful piece as a start-say a bright orange (not pumpkin orange) jacket or clutch paired with a black or dark blue dress.Once you have gained confidence,you can for instance try colour blocking.
On Haider Ackermann:
He knows the art of draping,that's for sure.All his pieces had an avant garde touch,the colours and fabrics evoking somewhat of a dark,sinister mood yet retain elegance.Some of the clothes seemed to melt into each other(result of the clever draping) and all of the fabric generally remained close to the body.
Fetish.
What: As defined by the Fairchild Dictionary of Fashion"Fashions inspired by styles associated with aberrant sexual practices such as sado-masochisim.These include stiletto heels,thigh-high boots,corsets,and garments made out of leather,rubber,and PVC plastic."
Where:Giles,Marc Jacobs,Versus,Mugler,Givenchy...
Beauty:I don't think there is an example of fetishistic makeup,the focus is more on the clothes and the accessories.Try a high sleek ponytail a la Louis Vuitton.
Giles Givenchy
Versus Mugler
Look to love:Versus,above,offers the classic black dress with a twist-the top is beaded and semi transparent.Revealing without revealing,this subtle art can be worked from runway to realway.
Trends:Fetish can be interpreted in different ways,from the erotically charged clench/release type of clothing-say a loose dress bandaged up very tightly,to the latex,lurex and PVC extravaganza as in Mugler (above) to subtle showing of veiled skin,Versus,to even mix of materials (two trends in one,getting to that below) as in Givenchy.
How to wear it:I would go for Versus' approach for an evening dress,which remains elegant but with the dominatrix twist without going overboard.For every day,I would recommend using accessories-you do NOT want to look like a hooker.Whatever the situation,thigh-high boots are a no-no,as are super short clingy outfits (God forbid they have cutouts,too).Adopt a black PVC clutch,for instance.
On Givenchy and Marc Jacobs,both who worked fetish and it's feel:
Givenchy exhibited the usual dark (that was a trend in itself-dark glamour) sophistication with fetishistic influence,but it was pushed up a notch-velvet leggings,tight tulle skirts,patent,romantic prints with those of panthers,leather/silk/fur bomber jackets-a perfect mix of the delicate feminine and powerful masculine.
Marc Jacobs:
Fabric manipulations,trompe d'oeuil,richness in detail,fur,androgyny and weird saucer hats with chin straps were just some of the manifestations of the weird and wonderful mind of Marc Jacobs.He focused on the detailed craftwork behind couture this season.
Tous Ensemble
What:Mixing materials together.
Where: Givenchy,Marni,Dries Van Noten,Vivienne Westwood,Roberto Cavalli...
Beauty:N/A
Marni Roberto Cavalli
Dries Van Noten Vivienne Westwood
Look to love:They are all brilliant,but if I had to choose one look that really represented the trend as it could be worn every day it would be Marni (above).
Trend:This is throwing very different materials together in an odd collage that somehow works.This is perfect for winter-layers upon layers of different fabric that provide warmth and WOW factor.You just need self-confidence to pull it off.
How to wear it: This does require a little thought even though the construction seems as if you just threw a load on.Pay attention to proportion,architecture,and your contrasting fabrics.As at Vivienne Westwood,tie it all up together with a belt if you have to-you do NOT want to look shapeless.I like how Dries Van Noten combined printed with sequinned mesh with checks etc-use it as inspiration.
On Marni:
50s couture,prints,kookiness and a complete mix of fabrics-the modern woman goes all out and has no limits,maximalist but still lives in the real world.
1940s
What: War time,and women had to dress accordingly.Frivolity was out,simplicity in.
Where: John Galliano,Gucci,Miu Miu,Jonathan Saunders....
Beauty:Think glamorous woman faced with the horrors of the war.A natural face represents the minimalism that reigned during the period,but the woman still wears red lipstick as a reminder of the lost glamour and happier times.
Gucci John Galliano
Miu Miu Jonathan Saunders
Looks to love:Gucci's haute war woman: utilitarian chic with glamorous fur on the neck,as a reminder of better times.
Trend: Shift dresses,utilitarian chic-basic pieces that are still perfectly tailored,sharp shouldered jackets,knee-length skirts.Berets,hairnets and turbans replaced hats in Europe,whilst in America the emphasis was on sporty leisurewear-separates,bodysuits,jumper dresses...
How to Wear it:Just take one of the key pieces from the epoch and wear to work the trend.The easiest way for winter is imitating the Gucci or Galliano look-tailored jackets,a knee length skirt and a great pair of mary-janes(huge for fall) to stay relevant to 2011.
On Miu Miu, another standout collection this fall.
Embellished flowers and swallows,40s,peter pan collars,oversize purses,brown palette-Miu Miu incorporated all the major trends to its collection and then some.
Craft
What:Craft here refers to handicraft fabrics,homespun etc
Where: Rodarte,Prada,Hermes,House of Holland,Charles Anastase...
Beauty:Not applicable.A fresh face is always good though.
Hermes Rodarte
Charles Anastase House of Holland
Look to love:Rodarte's crochet 3/4 length dress,with tights and boots.
Trend: Rodarte was inspired by the american plains,house of holland redefined tailoring by turning grandma pieces on their heads,Hermes went for eastern inspired cuts and Charles Anastase continues his obsession with Lolita.3/4 length is officially the new length for skirts and dresses,but you need height to pull it off.If it doesn't suit you,go maxi length,but anything short is passe.
How to wear it:For a Lolita inspired look,take a flimsy silk dress,pair with semi-opaque tights and a buttoned up thick woolen coat.Try coats in handicraft fabrics in longer,minimalist yet architectural shapes,or for an instant style boost,simply invest in a thick wool jumper.
1960s
What:Transition from the new look (propagated by Christian Dior) to girl-child,youth culture.
Where:Prada,Alberta Feretti,Versace,Bottega Veneta...
Beauty:The focus in the 1960s switched from the pout to the eyes-liquid eyeliner,full mascara...
Versace Bottega Veneta
Prada Alberta Ferretti
Look to love: Alberta Feretti's bright coloured shift dress/tunic.
Trend:Brightly coloured tunics, peter pan collars, pea coats,plastic trims and big sequins.
How to wear it: Invest in a coloured tunic or shift dress-that shouldn't be too difficult to find here,and pair with ankle boots in a neutral colour.Do NOT go thigh high.
On Bottega Veneta:
Colours,prints,60s nostalgia,A-line skirts(huge for fall) and the best top models of the season made for an impressive show.
Prints
What:Spots and circles,baroque,pen and ink swirls,checks,animal...
Where:Stella McCartney (dots),Jonathan Saunders,Versace (baroque),Givenchy and Marc by Marc Jacobs (animals) ,balenciaga,cacharel (pen and ink swirls),Missoni,Burberry,Sportmax,(checks)...
Beauty:Not applicable.
Stella McCartney Emanuel Ungaro
Marc by Marc Jacobs Missoni
Look to love:Stella McCartney's dress with dots and splattered all over it,and Ungaro's delicate but strong haute prints.
Trend:Prints of all kinds,whether it be animal (a trend that survived from the spring/summer 2011 collections),checks,spots,circles,stars..
How to wear it:Wear one print at a time-clashing prints may be worn by the fashionistas of today but it's only of the moment,and will be passe quicker than you can say harem pants.
On Balenciaga,who also did prints:
Feminine,ladylike,pretty prints,soft and fluid were the key words in describing the collection.The tunics worn over trousers look was also adopted.
Victoriana
What:Conservative yet excessively decorated designs during Queen Victoria's reign.
Where:Giles,Temperley London,Meadham Kirchhoff,Mulberry,Fendi...
Beauty:Stark minimalism in the Victorian era.As I said,super conservative.On the runways though,a matte face,smoky eye and red pout.
Meadham Kirchhoff Temperley London
Mulberry Fendi
Look to love:Mulberry's relatively high necked dress with pleated skirt-the easier and more relaxed way to go Victorian whilst remaining contemporary.
Trend:High necks,all the skin covered,ruffles,an exaggerated amount of trimmings and lace were all the fashions of the epoch.The runways have removed much of the frivolity,keeping to the darker mood,strict shapes and conservative maximum skin coverage.
How to wear it:You can go the Mulberry way which is rather minimalist,with pleats giving the strict look some romance,or keep the look very simple but add a powerful ruffle (just keep it at that though) like in Fendi.Or, go for a top/skirt with detailing-small ruffles as in Temperly, but keep the other piece very simple.
Parka Upgrade and Ponchos
What:The traditional parka gets a major revamp whilst ponchos were everywhere.
Where: Thakoon, Alturazza,Derek Lam,Alexander Wang,Chloe...
Beauty:N/A
Thakoon Altuzzara
Chloe Alexander Wang
Look to love:Two key pieces:Chloe's wild west inspired poncho, and Alturazza's elegant,urban and sexy parka (who knew that the humble parka would ever see this day!)
Trend:The parka retains it's utilitarian purpose but has become sleeker,sexier,and more feminine,as exemplified in Altuzarra's collection.Alexander Wang,on the other hand,decided to create a parka-poncho -bomber jacket hybrid which was refreshing,perfect for the urban girl.Thakoon injected colour in his sporty outerwear designs,connecting the costumes of versailles to the clothes worn by the Kenyan tribes.Chloe was 70s inspired yet there was a touch of the more wild west American plains present in the poncho.
How to wear it:You just put it on.It dresses any outfit.I would suggest going the Chloe route for the bright poncho-keep your clothes in neutral,warm palettes without any clashing prints.Parkas are best worn over something flimsy,light,which floats and snakes over the body like the dress from Altuzarra,to exemplify the contrast of the fabrics and to give the outfit definition.Just don't forget to wear tights (and make sure that you are warm enough-flimsy dresses in colder weather are NOT a good idea.I suggest you go the Altuzarra route when the weather is 'crisp',not chilly and certainly not cold)
On Alexander Wang:
Quilted hybrid ponchos-bomber jackets-parkas,pieces that were shorter in length at the front and long at the back,capes( making a major comeback), and fur-sleeved jackets were just some of the pieces showcased in the collection,blending in the biker girl (very popular last season) with a more relaxed version of formal wear.
His Spring/Summer 2011 collection was not very well received by critics but this season he makes a comeback,returning to what he was known for but adding something new.
Skirts or dresses/tunics over trousers,preferably skinny ski pants.
What:Title says it all.
Where:Alberta Ferretti,Jil Sander, Jean Paul Gaultier,Richard Chai Love,Lanvin..
Beauty:N/A
Richard Chai Love Alberta Ferretti
Jil Sander Jean Paul Gaultier
Look to love:Alberta Ferretti's colour blocking.
Trend:Skinny ski pants were worn under skirts and dresses,symbolising the end of the leggings.
How to wear it:It's extremely simple:get a pair of very skinny trousers,not jeans nor leggings nor treggings or whatever,and pair with a tunic/shift dress/coat/almost everything.This is probably the biggest and most wearable trend for fall.Leggings are now out of fashion,though keep them in your closet next time there's an 80s revival.
Pleats
What:Pleats.
Where:Valentino,Viktor and Rolf,Jill Stuart,Vera Wang...
Beauty:N/A
Jill Stuart Vera Wang
Valentino Viktor & Rolf
Look to love:Vera Wang's silvery grey pleated dress-magnificent and powerful.
Trend:Pleats everywhere!On skirts,dresses,offering the "new romantic" style of dressing in all its glorious femininity.
How to wear it:Top to toe as in Vera Wang,or concentrate on one piece at a time-either the top or the skirt.In these colder times,I would pair a duffle coat(the coat for fall) with a pleated skirt,semi-opaque or opaque tights and a killer pair of pumps or shoeboots.
On Valentino:
Knitted/cardigan/trench coats,sheer blouses,colour blocking(the trendiest way to wear colour),lace,A-line skirts(the new shape for skirts),bustier and chiffon dresses and the conservative/sexy flavour were just some elements that were present in the wildly successful show this season.
That's it for Part 1,where I covered all the major trends.Tune in to Part 2 where I will be writing on the beauty trends,men's trends and of course,the top 10 models of the season.
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xoxo
Alex
