I'll start off by the dress that made one of the biggest impressions on me, because I could see it being worn here-from the aged and cobbled streets of Port Louis,to the more coastal areas of Grand Baie and Tamarin, to the cafes of Floreal.
Dolce and Gabbana's "macrame effect" dress, inspired by the trousseau that women inherit from their mother paired with wooden platform shoes and gold hoops.The detail in the dress is incredible,with broderie anglaise and lace, but at the same time so modern,elegant and timeless.
I could see the Mauritian woman wearing it.The dress is powerful in itself-gold accessories,quite minimal,would be enough to finish the look,so it's fuss-free dressing.The makeup is kept minimal-a tinted moisturiser with SPF, some mascara and pink lipstick/lip gloss is sufficient.The hair is casually tied back.It must look beautiful against the typical Mauritian scenery.And it looks stunning on tanned skin-which everyone here has, to different degrees.
It's simple and seductive-it shows skin, but is covered up.
One of the stand out trends of the season is without a doubt colour,with blue and tangerine dominating the runways.
Gucci
Aquilo.Rimondi Prada Diane Von Furstenburg
It's easy to wear colour-I did write an article a few weeks back on the issue, so you can always refer to that.Black accessories paired with a bold blue colour give it subtelty and elegance.
Don't match your make-up with clothes unless you have a specific vision in mind.
If you really don't like colour in clothes, and it makes you feel ill at ease- "Colour looks shit on me"-Kate Winslet (British Vogue,April 2011) , you can always go for colour in make-up and nails.
Cha-Cha-Cha Blue Lagoon ; All NARS
http://www.narscosmetics.com/Vintage-Nail-Polish-C540_hunger-zizi-tallulah_7.aspx
Nudes offer a cooler on the eyes alternative as opposed to the blinding brights,but although some collections offered it in clinical,stripped back, architectural forms, the feel was more romantic-soft nude pleats and transparency were recurring themes.This softer look was expressed through materials used,such as lace,and the prints-small,delicate flowers-but that will be elaborated further on.
Chloe.
The look above is gorgeous-it's minimalist, but floaty,soft and feminine, echoed in the pleats and colour,with bronze make-up.It also combines two trends in one-the skirt is three-quarters in length.
Versace Hermes Emporio Armani
This trend is very wearable-lovely nude pleated skirts are found everywhere,just always make sure the material is of good quality.Material here is important-when wearing nudes,you can mix textures-and you should.This is shown by the Chloe look above.The top seems to have a leather,more hardened look, echoed in the shoes, which contrasts with the skirt.
Lace and craft have been major on the runways too.Craft-stitching,macrame,crochet,broderie anglaise and so on have been worked upon and redefined to give a more luxurious appeal.
Alberta Ferretti BCBG Max Azria Gucci
Lace can be tricky,so one piece at a time.Note that just by wearing lace and craft items you are making a statement so do not go overboard.Long tassels and other boho accessories are to be kept very minimal.You want to give a more luxurious feel to the outfit.
At Gucci,for example,the top was embellished with metal,woven with crochet, with small delicate tassels.
This was paired with very simple pair of new generation harem pants ( tailored,but loose,to the knee- a sort of fusion) with a tasseled belt.The tassels define movement,without looking hippie/boho-ish.The luxury-glamour effect is achieved.
Lace and craft was also prevalent in Ralph Lauren's collection.
It's just the right amount to give the feel of the cowgirl Lauren created without looking overdone or cliche.
It was also genius the way he paired a loose top with lace and embroidery with a stunning evening skirt.This is a look that can be worn day or night.
The new hemline-3/4 Length.
This was EVERYWHERE.
Rodarte Roland Mouret Calvin Klein.
Chloe
This trend does some getting used to as it can be seen as unflattering in the worst cases.It works well with tall figures but with a shorter frame, it can make you look abbreviated.So if this trend is not working for you,let it be.
Prints are a predominant trend-two main themes were horiculture( this is used to convey the feeling of a new beginning,fresh life etc) and animal.Stars were also used.
Embrace it-it's a great outlet for expression.
Mary Katrantzou
Prada Miu Miu Givenchy
Of course,thought must be put before wearing fierce prints.They work well as separates-say the Prada top paired with neutral trousers-but avoid clashing.One strong print is statement enough as it is.
Apart from colour and soft neutrals,sharp,stark white was also a theme,echoing strict minimalism,functional and fuss-free-your only accessories will be neutral heels and belt,if necessary.
Stella McCartney
Celine Chloe Alexander Wang.
This is an easy trend to wear-just think of strict,utilitarian chic.It is easily worked into the wardrobe-instead of the traditional beige trench, for example, you could opt for white.For work,you can go for an all white ensemble as seen in Stella McCartney-white shirt,white tailored jacket and trousers.
The Glamorous epoch: The 1970s signature styles:peasant blouses,safari jackets and so on-all truly mastered by Yves St Laurent-is en vogue.
Marc Jacobs
Emilio Pucci YSL Marc Jacobs
Tailored trousers:Everybody knows this look-and the classic trousers are so much more appealing than jeans.Of course, there are different ways to wear them-the way they drape the leg being the main focus.
In sync with the 70's trend,some trousers seen on the runways were high waisted and larger, more relaxed around the leg.Others echoed the more androgynous trend and were more masculine.
3.1 Phillip Lim
As long as your figure,frame and proportion is considered,this look is timelessly elegant.The different sizes and draping affects the mood of your clothing, so be careful.A looser fit is more relaxed,perhaps even nomadic or Arab-esque,whereas something close to the body is stricter,perhaps more formal in its flavour.
Celine ADAM Derek Lam
Sportswear luxe:Sportswear,but not of the tracksuit variety.Streamlined,dynamic, modern,emphasizing shape,construction and architecture.
The key to achieving this look is examining the details.Transparent fabrics,sheer panels,zips,mesh,racer-back,bandeau bras and so on.The thing to keep in mind is that you can't wear it all at once-a detail at a time.
The make-up should be natural,the hair slicked into a ponytail(more about that in Part 2 of the article next week) or a strict centre-part.
David Koma
Richard Nicoll Pringle of Scotland Jonathan Saunders
If you are scared to adopt a trend,start with the details.The tweaks can be simple yet make a powerful statement-like making the straps of a dress another,more vibrant colour,streamlined across the neck to the back-as the yellow straps on the dress by Jonathan Saunders.
Denim-the fabric popularised by celebrities in the 1990s and early 2000s(Justin and Britney in denim outfits)-has made a comeback.
Some styling advice:
DO NOT WEAR A DENIM JACKET WITH JEANS!!!!I see it so often and it looks so terrible.You should always mix it up!
Of course,designers did in some cases pair a denim skirt-suit with tailored jacket,but,as with coloured fur,it won't last.Trust me-do NOT go for the top to toe denim look.
Rebecca Taylor
Moschino Balmain Dries Van Noten
That's it for Part 1-Next week,trans-seasonal dressing and beauty( because make-up changes with fashion and seasons,in case you were unaware of this).
xxoxxo
Alex
P.S You should read the Portrait of Dorian Gray by Oscar Wilde.It's fantastic.It explores so many concepts that stay relevant,as well as exploration of aesthetic.The author after all,pioneered the "Art for Art's sake" movement.
