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The Heat Fashion Tour Final

Friday, June 3, 2011

Saturday the 28th of May marked the end of the Heat Fashion Tour 2011 at Swami Vivekananda.My life changed quite a lot during these past few weeks-I met very talented and friendly people (here I go MAJOR name dropping-Karl Lagerfeld would recoil in horror) such as Kunal Jankee (photographer),Sweetie Ramlagun and the rest of the designers who presented their clothes,Emma Grigoryan (photographer) Lucy Wong (consultant),Martine Luchmun (journalist for l'Express),Mario Guillot (designer for IV Play),Fak Mautbur(events project manager for HEAT),Diavin Gopal (FOUR Agency),Kitty Philips (model) and all the models of HEAT,plus everyone else who I met there and haven't mentioned.They are all wonderful people,without any trace of pretension or arrogance (in creole "gran noir") and deserve all the success the universe can bring them.

Note:Lots of clothes reappear in this post,so instead of just posting links,I'm going to copy the text where appropriate so everything is on this page,but of course adding extra comments so you won't be reading the same thing.

After a dance which marked the beginning of the finale,it was show time for the designers to present their collections.
Anais Lionnet was first up.She worked on the theme "Hot Pink"




















I felt a strong romantic vibe emanating from her work,a trend overwhelmingly present in the Spring/Summer 2011 shows(remember Chloe?) which has also paved the way for the "new minimalism".
I loved the detail in the first dress.The silk corset was delicately carved out-it gave the feeling of a budding rose,that on a single touch,creases.The skirt was like the blooming of the flower-rows and rows of voile,all worked in a different manner (pleated,ruched,gathered and so on)-the ruched technique at its finest hour here.
Last week I made a mistake concerning the skirt in the second picture.It isn't plastic-it was some kind of semi-transparent metallic voile layered over the skirt,which adds a touch of 3D.The skirt is still soft and romantic but the metal brings this futuristic,tougher kind of glamour.Paired with the pink chinoiserie-inspired top,it offers one stunning cocktail ensemble.
A plastic inspired skirt as I was describing in the last article wouldn't have been bad either.
The third piece was a cocktail dress with soft chiffon(It was either chiffon or very thin voile but I could be wrong) accents at the hem,adding movement and softness.I especially liked how the fabric was dyed-it further enhanced the romantic notes of the dress given the fact that there was no actual print or motif,but further down near the hem there was a sort of heart shaped print running horizontally on the fabric which brought definition and strength.
The fourth is wearable romance at its best-white trousers with ruched tulle detail running through the sides.I wouldn't be surprised if this was copied by shops-many women are sick of having to look strict and formal at work,scared that femininity,especially in a male dominated environment will weaken them.Some want more than a pretty blouse to dress them up,something different from the straight leg trousers worn everyday.Others want trousers that are dressier than tops,but not of the blinged out variety.For all those reasons and more,those trousers are perfect,because they have the femininity and romance so desperately searched for but at the same time,transforms the woman into a powerful sophisticate.Paired with the corset inspired top,it reminds me of a modern,less sexified,more powerful version of Jessica Rabbit.

Ice Watch then took over.The clothes are from the sponsors.
 The first piece was a white top with a flower print skirt with a huge patent pink belt.I would have preferred the belt a little smaller in size but I was happy they chose pink instead of black,which would have ruined the feminine look.The second piece was your typical shirt/trousers combination,but I like the fact that the trousers are striped although I'm not impressed by the colour of the shirt-it's a bit "blah".The third photo shows a black and yellow dress (thank God the dress didn't have black and yellow stripes or it would scream bee!).Before I elaborate,here's a style rule from Donatella Versace that I read a couple of years back and adopted for life:You either show off your legs or your back,but never both,and if you had to choose between the back and the legs,go for the back.Here unfortunately the dress is too short,too tight,and reveals a lot of skin.I would have paired it with a shrug,preferably quite large and in a thicker fabric to balance it out more.The fourth look is a white polo and black trousers (why are there no men's proper sweaters and coats on show??!!),whilst the fourth look once again opted for the super tight,short dress which I would,as in the third photo,pair with a very voluminous shrug.I would also do away with the large belt and go for something thinner.






























Both men in the picture are working your typical tshirt/jeans combination,but there is an interesting story about the girl's "dress".The model was po-faced on the runway,because the dress was about to completely ride up to her bum,something obviously very uncomfortable to experience.A top is not to be worn without anything else!There is a simple test to see whether your dress is too short:Just sit down and stand up again without adjusting anything.If you see that the dress has shifted to butt territory, do NOT wear it.Another test is to sit down and see where the fabric rides up to(test applicable to less tight dresses) and use your common sense.I personally would never buy a really super short dress-you grow out of them really fast so it's not a wardrobe staple (and let's face it-most of us don't have that much money to splurge on dresses every three months) plus it's a wardrobe malfunction waiting to happen.

Varuna Jeetun was the second designer to present her collection.

























She chose to work with the theme "Metallic Fun".All her clothes were very 70s,Studio 54 inspired-full on glamour.The first dress had a mesh insert(I appreciate details like that) with a chain of gold squares draped across the collar bone and the shoulders of the model.The second dress had silk draped over fabric with metallic detail, accessoried with a simple skinny black belt.The third dress was printed:subtle purple Indian prints,combined with a glittery sequined body with purple,almost zebra like stripes,with a long metallic chain weaving through the model's arm.The fourth dress stroke the perfect "Over The Top but Not Too Much" balance-the brooch(love!) which pinned two very different materials together,one bedazzled,the other soft pure silk(or satin,probably the latter),with the metallic belt separating the top half of the dress from the satin/silk bottom,semi-opaque fabric underneath the skirt topping the whole look off.What I liked was how she subtly combined different fabrics,and her nod to the Halston era.I also appreciated the accents that completed each outfit-the square metal chain,the skinny black belt,the metal-diamante vine creeping up the arm,and the brooch.Every girl should have a beautiful brooch-it totally transforms even the most boring of outfits.

BSKG                                                                                                                                                 
I would have preferred the first black dress/top if it had a different collar,something that had more of a V shape.The second photo shows a very loose pair of jersey trousers with a top and a bolero.I'm not a huge fan of the styling here-if you are going to go with a very loose,Eastern inspired pair of trousers,team with a very fitted top that has detailing in it,not just a printed tee.Something embroidered would be fine.The skin shown/skin covered isn't right either:As you are covering your leg entirely,keep your arms bare.I would have gone with a fitted embroidered top with a red chinoiserie scarf-working the Eastern inspired look to the max.Remember what I told you about how the straps of shoes look like you cut up your leg if worn with a hemline below the knee?That's what happened in the third picture.The two men are working the tshirt/trousers combination but I wish there was more in terms of accessories.My key piece?The black draped top in the far right corner.The cut on the neck is really beautiful-pair with tailored beige/white trousers and accessorise accordingly.

Here are some more looks featured:A grey T-shirt with yellow detail,which was the nicest Tshirt featured in the collection,a tracksuit top(never out of the gym,of course),with a simple blue tshirt and jeans(the latter was very well cut),a military ensemble consisting of a jacket and trousers(only wear one military inspired piece at a time),and a simple white shirt with greige trousers (greige=grey+beige).

The third designer to present her collection was Bhavna Shibchurn, who worked on the theme "Ruched and Draped"as well as her own personal theme "Dreamy Winter",which was inspired by the changing climatic conditions here.




















I personally thought of "Shepherdess in the Apocalyptic Sahara".In the third photo you can see what I mean-like the woman was in an apocalyptic sandstorm,the sand blasted away some of her clothes and tattered the remaining pieces,with only her shepherdess inspired skirt (the cut resembles Balmain Fall/Winter 2009/2010) and her corset top with long thin  fabric draped from the neck remaining, like the model was the ultimate survivor.The same feel can be seen in the cocktail dress in silver with the black fabric trailing around it,accented by the fact that the dress is cut in half so it's actually a skirt and a top.The two other pieces reminded me of the harsh winter following the apocalypse-comfy wool knits,suede trousers (last photo),and satin ones(first photo).For me the outstanding piece though was the skirt-a tremendous amount of work must have gone into ruching the fabric like that.What I liked was how it related to winter-this is the Heat Winter Fashion Tour after all.The wool in the shrug (1st photo) and in the sweater (last photo) are very well done.You don't have that much variety here come winter,as I guess shops are worried that they may invest too heavily in clothes that won't sell.I personally would have invested in the wool sweater,(last photo) because it's perfect for Mauritian winter and trans-seasonal dressing:when temperatures rise in the middle of the day.simply unbutton.

Next was the Fiat Contest.The Fiat 500 sponsored the event,so for the final,all the designers had to create two pieces with the car as inspiration.

Here are some photos of the Fiat so you have a better idea of the collections presented:










I asked some of the designers about what part(s) of the car they were inspired by.For the others that I have unfortunately not been able to contact,I'm going to write what I think may have been their inspirations.
Anais Lionnet gave me the quote concerning exactly what was required for the designs:
"The Fiat 500,born in Italy,symbolises the modern businesswoman,confident,liberated,independent.The target market of this fashion car is the businesswoman/professional par excellence.You should thus produce a collection consisting of two creative pieces uniquely for women,inspiring yourselves of the elements above.It’s very important that you accessorise your designs in sync with the colours and the definitions of the car. Colours to put forward-sky blue-but you can work with other matching colours or tones according to what the car inspires you."

Sweetie Ramlagun was the first to present her pieces.


In the words of Sweetie:
On colours :
"For both of the pieces, the dominant colours are electric blue and grey.The blue is luminous,with a gradient effect to illustrate the « shiny »concept of the car ( the body and part of the dashboard).The grey is to show other aspects of the car which are solid,durable and strong.By combining these two colors,we have a beautiful result - the blue and grey are already two colors that go very well together, and hence give a certain harmony and a pronounced touch of elegance to the final work. Fiat knew how to choose their colour palette and I followed suit."

On clothes:
"Both pieces were inspired by every component of the Fiat 500 ,emphasising elegance, very feminine lines that sometimes marry the woman's body-the mechanical aspect of the vehicle,mixing with the sensuality of the work. The product is a result of combining cuts,shapes and prints with many lines - a design that is both imposing yet camouflaged.The mix of materials and colours are also selected through the textile chosen and by the shape given.I also wanted to avoid too many straight lines."
Garment 1:
"Jersey sleeveless top with the print of the Fiat 500, with a waistcoat that ties around the neck, allowing more freedom in the arms and giving a little preview of the print on the top.The trousers are "long-crotch”- very fashionable today – which extends and plays with the silhouette of the model allowing more space to play again with curves and printing.At knee level, the printing of the gears was used to stress the serene mechanical movement of the cogs, and the disc print below are inspired designs of the wheel of the Fiat 500."
Garment 2:
"Dress with no sleeves, again with many details :curves and a lot more patchwork,with emphasis on the front of the car, the headlights and the tail lights. The dress itself has a very aerodynamic effect:It is close to the body and gives another structure to it using lines,complying with the angles of the lines of the car found both inside and outside the vehicle."
Global view:
"The inspiration and creation of these garments was really a way to highlight the modern woman - who loves mechanics, speed, elegance and imposes herself determinedly yet retains her femininity.
The automotive world is now her own!"

Here is the second piece by Sweetie:




















Sanjeet Boolell
































When I asked Sanjeet about his designs,he said he was inspired by "the soul of the car.The feel of the chromatic invasion,every component of the car merged into one.That is,not a design that you can look at and you can dismantle, easily figuring [it] out (that means the designs are not obvious.He tried to capture the very essence of the car,and how every piece comes together to form one entity).The outfits should feel as one with the vehicle-colour is of no importance.What matters is how you manage to be in harmony with the vehicle."
You can see his point through his collection.There are different designs in the first all in one number-one part short,one part top,with different accents,all combining to make one beautiful outfit.The same can be said on the second outfit-different components and styles merging together.I especially love the detail on the calf part of the trousers.

Samuel Yeung

















When I asked Samuel what inspired him,he simply said "The car."
I see fluid lines in both pieces,probably representative of the curves of the car and it's interior.The leopard print shorts evoke the more fun and glamorous side of the vehicle.The beige top could evoke the interior of the car with respect to the seats,whereas the white top with the black pleated detail could represent the shape of the front of the vehicle.

Nimah Rawah




















In the words of the designer: "My inspiration was the evolution of the FIAT from 1957 to 2011 and the logo!The mini skirt and jacket reflects FIAT in 1960's, with the pinned waist of the jacket, and I've shown it's evolution by a 3D painting done on the jacket.The mini strapless dress reflects the FIAT 2011:mini,stylish,modern,and gives a sense of freedom with the oganza manipulated all around the dress reflecting modern ladies!Aluminium can bases with oganza ribbon were used to represent the alloy wheel."I loved how she decided to work on the history of the car as inspiration,which was very creative and highly original.

Annabelle Fleury


















She was probably inspired by both the interior and exterior of the car,emphasising it's colours-beige (interior),blue(exterior) and red(the FIAT logo).The dresses are also very evocative of the modern businesswoman-Fiat's target market.The fabric perfectly moulds the woman's body-she is proud of her femininity,liberated,and independent.

Anais Lionnet



















She told me that " I was inspired more on the concept of the car,and the reasons as to why it was created,meaning a car that is comfortable,practical,more suited to urban living."I couldn't find a perfect English translation for the next sentence “Celle qui la conduit fait pensée à la voiture avec ses belles courbes gracieuse de l’avant à l’arrière.”
"The first outfit consists of a silk blouse is “tie and dye” of a blue that resembles the sky ,and was made in a way to remind one of the body(of the car) that changes with speed,that is,it reflects the sky and so on. The neck evokes the lines at the bottom of the car, and is held by small headlights in the form of buttons on each side. The grey skirt that goes with the blouse gives the metallic aspect of the car, a design which enhances the curves and the hips of the woman who wears it-sublime yet practical.
The dress has a plunging neckline with a bustier which reminds one of the front of the Fiat which is quite curved, with lines that give the illusion of hubcaps.It has raised cutouts respresenting the metallic piping, which reminds one of the mechanical aspect of the vehicle, paired with asymmetric lines with curves that we find on the front of the FIAT.At the back of the dress,we can observe only one door on each side which are upside down.The accessorises on the sleeves correspond to the handles and there are two small headlights in the form of buttons. "

Bhavna Shibchurn



















In the words of Bhavna "[I was] inspired by the wheels.I made a pattern play of the wheels that is painted on the fabric using car spray".All her pieces were beautiful-my favourite was the blue corset bust with the layers of fabric pouring down from it.The other dress was equally beautiful-small circles splattered all over the top,with white circles at the bottom near the hem as contrast.
Fabien Fauzou
















In the words of Fabien "The wheel, the shapes, curves of the car!The color and it's brightness!I also used a part of the car accessory as a belt in the first dress".I loved the belt-it was my favourite accent,really transforming the dress and adding structure.The second outfit was a black skirt paired with a top that had a circle cut out of it,embellished with white fabric ,resembling a wheel.

Varuna Jeetun



















She concentrated on the colours of the FIAT-different tones of blue draped across the body,with curves in sync with those of the car.The second dress emphasizes more on the metal parts of the car,with shiny silver accents scattered all over half of the bust and sides of the dress-the concept of the modern businesswoman (although I think it's businesswoman at Happy Hour).I especially liked the bag with metal details winding through it.

Veenasha Jilloo

















She was probably inspired by the metal aspects of the vehicle-chains,punctured holes around the collar and on the top and skirt to represent the wheels,the curves of the top in sync with the shape of the car.The second dress also concentrated more on the metal but it was also paired with a sky blue skirt,so it was more office centered.
Noorina Niamut

















She said "When I saw the car, I imagined a sleek and sophisticated look as the car is very minimalist.
I used satin fabric as it has a shiny metallic surface.I was inspired by the car seats for the shapes and forms-it has rounded edges. I tried to incorporate in the detailing of the outfits features of the FIAT in specific parts of my design, like the shoulders or the collar!I even incorporated rounded lines like for the bolero and the bermuda which was inspired by the part which is above the wheel and is grey.I used lots of buttons both small and big as surface decorations to give a mechanic feel-inspired by the wheels."
That marked the end of the Fiat 500 competition,with the winner announced at the end of the Heat Final.
Heat then presented the Lifetime Achievement award to Hughes Tuyau,who has been a model for the company for 10 years.


















The first collection to be presented in the "Best Professional' category was Samuel Yeung, who worked on the theme "Ruched and Draped"














He used a technique called structured draping in his work.His last dress had some elements of what Charles James's creations were known for-basically the dress stands up on its own when you take it off,thanks to a variety of underpinnings that stiffen the fabric.Every dress was architectural and beautifully created.
It was Samuel Yeung who informed me about the techniques he used.
He worked a lot with jersey as his main fabric,which is quite soft and drapes beautifully.The first piece was more layered than the others,which for me translated into light with reservations.Light,because of the gray to silver colour palette,reservations because of the draping,that acts as a sort of protection to the woman as it enrobes her and adds another layer to her,protecting her soul.Unless one fell in love as I did,someone would tend to try and keep in their comfort zone in the early stages of romance because one doesn't know for how long it will last,but everything does seem to be much better,more radiant than before(there were glittery embellishments on the shoulder).The second dress changes abruptly-the material still covers her but doesn't drape multiple times as before,so she is more exposed,the embellishments are in the centre of the body,representing a more open heart,the colours are warmer,so I think that the girl is falling in love and is filled with passion and excitement.Note that the dress is purple-not red or pink.The girl is also experiencing the darker side of love-obsession,jealousy,dealing with character flaws in herself and in her partner.
The third dress represents a blooming of some sort-I adore the Japanese cherry blossom print!They both have to live with each other's faults but love each other dearly,the ying and the yang of love, if you will, peacefully coexist and grow.The last piece has an autumnal flavour,which traditionally should represent the waning of love into a sort of evolution of friendship,but I don't want to think of it that way.No love is eternal spring for sure,but for me this is like a couple that grows older.The love is still there but it is different,it changes shape,but it is solid-note that there is no draping here,the form is pretty rigid yet softly voluminous.I loved it!

Beachwear
 The first item is a cut out metallic pink swimsuit,followed by a soft pink bikini.My two key pieces were in the third and fourth photo:the amazing white jumpsuit,straw hat with leopard scarf attached,belt separating the top from the bottom,and the woven bag.Dead on and perfect,but I would have paired it with wedges.My favourite swimsuit was in the fourth photo:printed with a super flattering cut,it guarantees sex appeal.The board shorts hit the knee in the fifth photo which is tolerable (people who have read my previous articles know I have a problem with board shorts that hit above the knee).
 I really love the flower print bikini in the first picture,designed in a not-so-typical triangle cut.Then came the typical triangle bikinis,one in purple fabric,the other a super skimpy number in burnt gold.Be extremely careful when wearing metallic bikinis-they are a trend piece,and not fashionable at present.You would be better off with something that doesn't have a print and is matte in whatever colour you want (avoid nude so as not to look naked) to be safe.Next was a pair of shorts (WHY mid-thigh?!) and a pair of super skimpy trunks (of which I have spoken on before.Unless you are European with a KILLER body,leave it alone)




















Then it was a display of the shortest,tightest briefs ever.Comment made above.

Sweetie Ramlagun then presented her collection,working on the theme "Hot Pink"





















She was inspired by the capital's (Port Louis for international viewers) culture and folklore,and the exotic bazaar with its range of super bright colours emanating from the products on display,all woven in to create a tapestry that transports the client to a different visual dimension.
Spots and Circles are on trend for fall 2011 and were seen on two of the three dresses.The second dress is printed-inspired by the capital's buildings and has some draping going on at the waist-beautiful.I love how the proportion was carefully thought of and applied-the V-neck,the cinching at the waist with the pleats,the slightly voluminous sleeves-a perfect dress.Laura Gucci apparently thought so too,because once the final was over she bought it.
I also appreciated the fact that there was a men's piece incorporated in her collection-notably the denim jean that was artfully ripped and imbued with bright pink.In the last photo,you can see a top that seems to be covered with plastic,paired with a skirt made out of a totally different,thicker fabric in matte black.I love this sort of work-combining materials that you wouldn't usually pair together,taking a traditional black skirt,making it slightly puffy at the bottom, and adding the very fitted futuristic plastic touch in the shirt,all combined to make a dress that is perfect in terms of proportion,style and direction.

RT Knits then presented their collection.
Some items here were very minimalist-the grey dress/top with the red dress that had a pleated skirt.It all needs accessorising and the right jacket and shoes to complete the look.Clothes are an expression of your personality, who you are and what you are feeling,but above all,it's an escape from the real world.You can't scream your head off in the middle of the street about your problems,but wearing a bright blue dress will lift your mood.I also like the top in the far right with broderie anglaise ruffle.


































The last two pieces were your typical shirt/jeans combination(I think I have said this four times already.I wish I could have seen more variety concerning men's wear).My favourite piece was the grey sweater.

The last designer to present his collection was Sanjeet Boolell, who worked on the theme "Metallic Fun".
He wanted to evoke a darker,edgier mood-a little reminiscent of Gareth Pugh Fall 2008 and the 2008 epoch,where designers were facing terrible financial turmoil because of the great recession.



















I loved the slight volume in the first dress,with the patent working its way all around as if imprisoning it.It reminds me of what Dita Von Teese once said on why she liked corsets so much and corset type dresses when she wore a beautiful black Dior dress(if I'm not mistaken)-she said that when you are in those sort of dresses,it's the dress that dominates you,it's in control.I get that vibe from the dress.It's like its alive and trying to dominate its owner.I also love the two toned cropped jacket.The second was an amazing all in one number,two toned with two materials-cotton/linen and satin which definitely screamed 'sex'-the materials used perfectly moulded the body and the satin was used to focus on the centre of the woman's body,from the stomach to the inner thighs.Erotically charged,that's for sure.Next there was an incredibly detailed all in one piece,composed of three different materials-the darker metal coloured one forming a sort of jacket and pair of shorts with ruffle detail,the lighter slithering across the body in an inverse Y,and the black adding a separate dimension to the pair of shorts integrated with the rest of the outfit .Finally there was my favourite piece-the amazing satin skin tight trousers with the winding,almost serpent like black design.I also loved the jacket with the pleat details in the front-resembling a Jabot collar echoing the Victorian era,which adds the perfect darker tone to the outfit.A minute on the runway isn't enough to appreciate this kind of skill,unfortunately-I bet there are plenty of other touches in there that need to be felt and seen up close.

Ashiana Fashion was the last shop to present it's collections.
 The wedding dresses are all the same as the preceding weeks.All of the dresses have a corset like top,and very full skirts that are either layered with tulle,lace or satin,all with diamates.Very "bling bling".
What we didn't see in the previous shows were the men's tuxedos,which got my approval,except for the black waistcoat on white shirt that I'm not too sure about.



The Heat Icon final was also held-the six model wannabes strutting their stuff for the last time,each hoping
to win a year's contract with the agency.The clothes are from Samuel Yeung.













My favourite dress was the one in the first photo-it was so romantic!
























The winners were then announced for each category of the competition.

The winner of the Heat Icon contest is Beverly Lennon.

The Best Shop Collection went to little IV Play.

































Sweetie Ramlagun won the Fiat 500 competition.

































 Varuna Jeetun won in the Young Talent Category.





















Samuel,Sweetie and Sanjeet anticipating the results for "Best Professional".It's great to see how the designers dress at these sort of events:Samuel went in pajamas,Sweetie in a little black dress,and Sanjeet in a casual printed Tshirt and jeans.

































Samuel Yeung won in the Best Professional Category


































Sweetie with her prize.































That's it for the Heat Winter Fashion Tour 2011!Tune in next week to have the latest on the 2012 Cruise collections,and the week after that,I'm introducing the first  911 Fashion Emergency Article-inspired by my own fashion nightmares,which happen quite often because I'm quite a clumsy person.

Have a great weekend and amazing week
xoxo
Alex


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